This is the sound of rubber squealing. We can even hear it with the machine powered off and when we manually turn the drum. We especially hear it when the unit is in a spin cycle. Thank you.
It is so common that the washing machine can make
terrible noise in many ways and is a common fault. In all occasions it is
important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the
identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that machine is
vibrating when it is running then the motor /drum suspension has to be
inspected. Since these fittings are located on the underside of the machine it
is important that you look for the noise with a good inspection lamp. Manually
turn the motor and drum and listen for the noise, if so the motor bearings, the
drum agitator shaft and fittings must be checked. Also the suspensions which
include the shock absorbers and springs, the body clamps must be checked to be
in correct alignment and not changed in position. Tightening of the
mounting is also very important. Finally
in most cases a drop of OIL or smear of grease on the moving parts cane solve
most issues. Check this link : http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1210/wobbly-washing-machine-or-tumble-dryer.html
For
replacement of bearings check for tips on this visual link: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1401/how-to-replace-the-bearings-on-a-washing-mach.html
SOURCE: MAYTAG WASHING MACHINE
The rubber smell is the belt from the motor to the tub. The grinding sound is/was the tension pulley that keeps the belt tight. The bearing on the pulley probably went out and now the belt is burning because of the friction of sliding around the pulley. The belt and the pulley need to be replaced. If you have the room, turn off and disconnect the hoses. Unplug the electrical cord from the wall outlet. Remove the drain hose and any water in the tub. Carefully tip the washer over backwards, DO DROP IT!!! Now you should be able to see the motor, tub, tension pulley, and belt. With a basic 3/8' drive socket set, probably metric, and a couple of screw drivers you should be able to remove the belt and the pulley. Take the belt, pulley, and model numbers to an applicance parts store and buy replacements.
I only suggest this because I hate paying labor. If you are not machanically inclined then you are going to have to pay the labor.
Good Luck
SOURCE: loud squeal during wash and spin cycles, maytag atlantis washer
Squealing normal
occurs due to belt slippage. I would check your belts (look for cracks.
Check the belt tension as well, most washers have an adjustment,
normally on the motor that allows you to increase the tension of the
belt.
If part of a belt gets torn and it is long enough, it will hit any part of the washing machine within range and make a clicking noise at every revolution of the motor.
I am pretty sure you need new belts. You should be able to remove a few screws and open the back cover. Between the pulleys there is a tensioner...loosen that so you can remove the belt easily. replace it with a new belt and adjust the tension.
hope this helps
SOURCE: Washer will not Spin during SPIN CYCLES
Thanks for the question If your washer sorta spins and washes ok, your problem is with the transmissionTHanks for your question THe Appliance doc
SOURCE: Hi I have a Whirlpool 6th Sense Washing Machine -
hi,
looks like there is some friction between the main and outer tub of your machine. there is generally a mechanism for smooth spinning of the machine in good rpms for wash-spin cycle. this could be because of rust formation, or mud collection. please refer your manual and remove the 3 screws behind the lower front plastic cover, and look for rust formation. scrape the rust and try spinning again.
cheers
SOURCE: washing machine drains, wont spin, making clicking
If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If
the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or
a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the
washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn
freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken
or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley
before you change the belt.
If
the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the
washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is
inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you
have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to
the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The
lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't
spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the
door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the
washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to
replace it.
The
motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a
small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber
and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the
transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails.
You may need to replace it.
A
belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a
belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine
belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed
with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The
clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come
up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent
the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need
to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified
appliance repair technician.
The
drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor.
For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and
draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one
direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you
need to replace the entire motor.
The
spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components
allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is
the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call
a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For
safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid
closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
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