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There is continuity when a meter is connected to both ends of heating element. Thermal limiter closed when heat from heat gun was applied, had continuity. Control thermostat closed when heat was applied, also had 12.5 ohms between blue and org/blk connectors. High limit thermostat closed when heat was applied.
Additional symptons. Dryer will not operate unless press saver is in on position at all temperature settings.
dryer runs but will heat up
Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating: - house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug. A ohm meter test for these parts is here. Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating: - glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor. A page for checking gas dryers is here
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THERMAL FUSES MAY BE THE CAUSE OF THIS In recent
years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with
your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses
are located on the heater element housing and should read
continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air
flow problems or a grounded
heating element. Follow the diagram below to see how to check the continuity of the switch, and look closely at the switch to see a fairly close idea of what you are looking for, ok
OR it could be a thermostat. Cycle and
safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show
continuity .
or lastly, it might be the Heat elements-Test heater
element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity
across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
IF you do not have an OHM-METER, then you can check these issues by following the directions below:
To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the
thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass
the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes
only.
To check the thermostats for continuity - -
You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing
purposes only. To check the Element: Try removing element and
physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.
Yes there is a thermal fuse and a hi limit switch. The hi limit switch is attached to the heating element casing. You said the heating element checks out If you checked it with an ohm meter and it checked out good. If you checked it visually double check it. The hi limit can be checked with an ohm meter it should show continuity. If you dont have a ohm meter you can jump the wires by connecting them using a paper clip or copper wire. Make sure to tape them with electric tape. The thermal fuse is connected with the Heating element and hi limit by one wire and is located at the bottom back of the dryer and slightly to the right as you face the back of the dryer. It is a small two wire fuse and once it trips you have to replace it you can check it and test it just like the hi limit switch. Be careful and always unplug the dryer before starting any repairs. I hope this help. If you need me to clarify anything just let me know. good luck
Yes there is a thermal fuse and a hi limit switch. The hi limit switch is attached to the heating element casing. You said the heating element checks out If you checked it with an ohm meter and it checked out good. If you checked it visually double check it. The hi limit can be checked with an ohm meter it should show continuity. If you dont have a ohm meter you can jump the wires by connecting them using a paper clip or copper wire. Make sure to tape them with electric tape. The thermal fuse is connected with the Heating element and hi limit by one wire and is located at the bottom back of the dryer and slightly to the right as you face the back of the dryer. It is a small two wire fuse and once it trips you have to replace it you can check it and test it just like the hi limit switch. Be careful and always unplug the dryer before starting any repairs. I hope this help. If you need me to clarify anything just let me know. good luck
The heating element have got old and brittle
over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the
element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts
of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for
continuity by using a meter set on Ohms. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side
of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should
have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor
man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2
wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control
thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of
the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked
vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the
electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
Hello there here is a list of things to check Testing with an ohm meter checking on a
dryer.... These are the places that pass voltage to the heater
elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of
places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance
before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are
testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any
wires ). Meter
testing and usage tips. 1. Power supply-check power
supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read
240V here,
tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm
meter. 2. Thermostats-Cycle and
safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show
continuity . How common thermostats work. 3.Timer-The timer has a set
of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture
what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater
wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode. 4. Thermal fuses-In recent
years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with
your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses
are located on the heater element housing and should read
continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air
flow problems or a grounded
heating element. 5. Selector Switches-Read the
wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches. 6. Safety Switch on Motor-There
is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is
running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check
with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically
safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals
on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read
continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a
dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two
terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter. 7. Heat elements-Test heater
element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity
across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ). But darn it, I
don't have a Ohm Meter.... To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the
thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass
the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes
only. To check the thermostats for continuity - -
You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing
purposes only. To check the Element: Try removing element and
physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.
ok first unplug dryer on the side of the heating element housing you will see the high limit switch black plastic with a sticker and a metal nose pull the 2 wires off check for continuity with ohm meter should be closed if it reads closed put wires back. Now look for a white ceramic rectangle piece it is a thermal fuse pull the wires and chech continuity if it shows closed it also is good. if either of these show open they need replaced. Now if both showed closed unplug wires from heating element check continuity should read continuity. if open element is broken. Now assuming this all shows good. Then it could be the timer or the centrifical switch on end of motor.
Your reading power on both ends of the element, but you will read '0 volts' across the element. You have got to check continuity 'through' the operating thermostat & the 'high limit thermostat' and the 'thermal fuse'. Either one of which will case 'no heat'. The motor contacts have to close after the motor is running. This could also case no heat.
Check voltage at the receptacle first. The motor and timer operate on 120VAC. The heating element requires 208/240VAC to operate. Remove power from the unit. You can check the heating element, thermostats and thermal fuses using an ohm meter across each components terminals with one wire removed. The thermal fuses and thermostats should read zero ohms. The heating element will read low ohms (20 to 40). Successful heater operation still depends on the motor centrifugal switch being closed. Depending on the model, you need the heat circuit in the timer or electronic control to be closed.
I hope this helps you.
Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating: - house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug. A ohm meter test for these parts is here. Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating: - glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor. A page for checking gas dryers is here. Meter testing and usage tips. 1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter. 2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work. 3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode. 4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. 5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches. 6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter. 7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ). But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter.... To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.
Check to see if your venting is plugged with lint or anything else. I had placed a new outside vent cover with a screen on it to keep the critters out of the vent pipe and that screen clogged up with lint. The dryer went thru all of its operations but the heat shut off right away because of this plugged vent.
But it is not always the
element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts
of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for
continuity by using a meter set on Ohms. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side
of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should
have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor
man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2
wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control
thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of
the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked
vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the
electric bill, then the timer could be bad. 
if your dryer is electric, check power to element, if power is good
if it has power, replace element
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