I opened the top and saw a 6 inch felt piece with 5 slits in it on one side that looks to be a glide or something in the back of the drum. How do I replace?
The problem is either going to be the drum bearing or the front upper and lower felt and glides.I'll list a walk-through for you if your interested .
1)The first thing you need to do is unplug the dryer.
2) You will need to pop the top of the dryer. This can be done with a flat screwdriver. Place the driver between the top and the front of the dryer and basically just pry upwards.
3)Now, that you can see inside the dryer, the next thing is to remove the front of the machine. At the upper left and right sides you will find a screw that holds the front to the frame of the dryer.Remove these screws and you can take the front off.
4) The glides and felt are located on the inside of the front piece you just removed.The drum actually rest on these and if damaged will produce a metal on metal dragging sound. If these parts are good, continue to step 5)You now have access to the belt and idler pulley, which is good because the belt needs to taken loose .
6) WIth the belt off spin the drum and listen for the sound that has been bothering you, if any sound other than a smooth sound is emitted when turning the drum your rear bearing is out.
7)You can remove the drum by lifting the back end up and pulling it out. Once you have it out the bearing will be exposed and the rest is just swapping out the old bearing and putting it back together.
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3
Testimonial: "It was helpful in the breaking down the components, but you never told me the purpose for the felt on the back of the dryer, behinf the drum. Turns out it is a heat shield which I had to reattach. After going through all the steps and completely cleaning the 2 inches worth of lint from everything.....I WD40'ed everything and made sure evrything was spinning and functioning properly. To make a long story short, someone had wedged something in between the wall and the dryer and dented the side of the dryer which was hitting the drum.....It's almost always the easiest thing, but I probably stopped a fire from happening from the amount of lint....the dryer has worked for the last 20 years, maybe I can get a few more now! Thanks again for your help. "
SOURCE: Loose drum support felt
you could try using "Permatex" hi-tack adhesive. you need to remove the door where the bearings are first.
SOURCE: Squeeking noise
Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.
Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the
whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will
work for you.
Hi,
My name is Frank...
Regarding your possibly broken dryer.
I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I
won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why -
I'll explain further down.
I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my
time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they
come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that
can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way
over-priced.
This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed
FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only
an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to
death.
Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as
to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the
110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that
provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.
All else is basically the same...
In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source
as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the
same as that of a gas dryer.
Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of
possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally
electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is
rare in Florida these days!
If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door,
and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss
of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to
the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken
drum belt.
If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot
- then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is
around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and
that does not include labor to install it).
Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.
I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas
Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer
model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for
free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same
time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that
everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the
time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....
Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE
anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their
refrigerator brands as well.
Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me
and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years
old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as
for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...
The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.
I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they
are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you
didn't know that. The best in the business!
As to your other possible noise scenario -
The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore
dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This
drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of
the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to
stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that
rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!
Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing
assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front
drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305
times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes
bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not
only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part,
but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C
part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3)
friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt
duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.
The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front
panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with
anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum.
A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER
wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's
frame which houses the door assy as well.
Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17
many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If
it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that
part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts
availability.
Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum
IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a
typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease
lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the
air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE
very loudly.
The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel
gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it
really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt
breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding
wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had
to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part
that I knew off.
The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing
type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower
motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper
brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a
noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go
bad!!
I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able
to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always
unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up
though!
That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also
keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if
your dryer is gas.
I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.
Again - I hope the info helps you out...
Best regards,
Frank
SOURCE: Maytag Dryer Loud Shrieking Noise
Here we go. First unplug the unit. Remove the front panel by removing the 4 phillips screws just inside the door (on the hinges and just opposite). Next remove the greenish/ brown 5/16 screws that hold the front panel in. There are wires still connected (door switch and moisture sensor) but if you swing it to the side, you can leave them connected and still procede. Next, you have to reach underneath (very difficult to see this so you will have to do it by feel) There is a belt that wraps around the drum. On the underneath side of the drum as you follow the belt it wraps
around the motor pulley (small wheel) and the tensioner pulley (bigger wheel just to the right). Now with one hand, move the larger pulley towards the msaller one. This will give you slack and you can take the belt off both pulleys. Now pull the drum
forward. There you have the inner workings left. Now, there are 3 wheels. 2 black and 1 white. I would check the white one since you've already replaced the black ones. This is the pulley that provides tension when the motor is running (hence no noise when you take the belt off) I'm betting you'l find it does not turn freely (you should be able to spin it with your finger and have it coast to a stop insdead of stopping as soon as you take your finger off). You can get the replacement wheel from your local appliance parts store or on line from the manufatrues web site. However, if you do have to wait for the part, take the wheel off the shaft and wipe off the inside race of the wheel and the shaft for temporarily relife and useage.
SOURCE: squeaky dryer drum...felt thing came off how to replace it?
Squeaking is cause by the drum bearing worn out and telling the tale. As it get thinner and thinner it begins to rub against the metal outer casing it is embellished in. To inspect it you must rmove tyhe front and get the drum out. Start by opening the the door and removing the screws holding down the top. Then raise the top and get the screws out thathold the front on. Use the rear acces panel(if applicable) to get the idler loose or access that idler from the front.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
SOURCE: Dryer is making loud thumping noise.
Take off the back panel of the dryer and look at the motor and belt turning the drum. There may be something caught on the drum and is pinned in place causing the noise. The motor could be loose on the platform and needs to be tightened. It is probably something physical and seen causing the noise.
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