Should the heating element on my oven be entirely red ? 80 % turns red right now.

Yes two red flecked on same terminal and the black flecked on the other side terminal of the element. Bobs your Uncle......HEAT! Make sure they are a tight fit. New spades if required.

have an electrician check the element wiring as it should only get red when on full heat but then be controlled by the thermostat
it appears that the element is bypassed the thermostat or the thermostat is failed
for the bottom not to get red is a further indication of incorrect wiring of the elements

Try this. ANSWER is not specific to your machine.
You dont need the element to be red hot to know its working,
If its not obviously getting hot after 30 seconds its not working.
I dampen a cloth and wipe the COLD element and then watch the moisture dissapear quickly if the element is working.
First, have you recently done a self-clean cycle?
If so we can suspect that the OVER HEAT cutoff switch was triggered.
BUT before we conclude anything, check the broiler element for operation.
If the broiler also does not work, then its highly likely that the overtemp cutoff relay was triggered. This generally requires a technician. BUT
If you have a schematic, it will show if this switch is a ONE TIME USE SWITCH and needs to be replaced, OR if it is a pushbutton resetable switch. In either case the oven needs to be dismantled somewhat to get at the switch... I would call a technicain.

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If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

if it is the b180, the answer (having just fixed this) is really simple.

The coily bit is the oven element - it will have gone. A new one from eBay cost me about 6 quid.
[WHEN IT ARRIVES !]

Turn the power off.
Inside the oven use a philips screwdriver to remove the 4 screws (KEEP THEM !)
You will see a coily thing and a fan.


You unscrew 3 more screws (2 on the left and 1 on the right).
(KEEP THESE TOO!)

now ... bit tricky, have the new one inside the oven and take each wire off one at a time and put it on the new element.

Screw it back on but DONT put the last panel back in.

Turn the oven on maximum for about 2 minutes and see it glow red.

Turn the oven off. Make a cup of tea and have a couple of biscuits while admiring how good you are and waiting for the element to cool down!!!

Put the final panel back in place. Whole thing (including a cup of tea) takes about half an hour.

It is more than likely that the oven element has failed.
You will it located at the rear of the oven compartment behind a removeable cover.
Hope this helps.

The power to the fan and thermostat is the fault. You will need to trace wiring from these elements to power source and I suspect that where the power cord meets the oven is where you'll find the cause.

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You have a bad thermostat if the element never cycles off.

Stove will not turn offCHECK

Temperature Control Thermostat

If the oven won't turn off the oven thermostat is often the cause of the problem. The electrical contacts inside the oven thermostat can weld themselves together and then the oven won't turn off. If this happens, turn off power to the entire appliance at the household circuit breaker or fuse. The oven thermostat usually cannot be tested and must be replaced if defective.

Oven Control Board

The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn off it could be that one of the relays on the oven control board is shorted closed, providing voltage to the heating circuit. It can be dangerous if the oven won't turn off. Don't leave the oven unattended without turning off power to the oven.

Relay board:
Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. This circuit board has several relays which control the switching of electrical current to the oven heat source. If the oven won't turn off it may be that one or more of the relays on the relay board have failed. If this happens replace the relay board. The relays on the board are not sold separately.ALSO CHECK THE BAKE AND BROIL ELEMENT.

: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!