Not getting enough water during rinse cycle

SOURCE: Slow Filling only in rinse cycle

Tony, the fact that you are not receiving any error codes tends to leave me to believe that your cold fill hose filter may be restricted. Going by your model number you can enter this mode by having the power on at the source and off at the console. Press and hold the lifecyle button and then push power button. You should hear 2 beeps and then the display go blank. You can test the hot and cold valves by pressing how dirty up (hot) and how dirty down (cold). If you find the cold valve slow as in your rinse check for restrictions. If it were the thermistor, I would think you would receive an error code..Good luck.

SOURCE: washing machine will not spin or drain

look at my post "eco smart won't drain, smells hot". It could be something stuck in very lowest part fo drainage area. you have to remove the motor on bottom of washer to see into this area and remove blockage.

SOURCE: Fisher & paykel top load washing machine

check my issue "eco smart won't drain, smells hot" on how to remove the motor unit from bottom of machine. I had a sock down in the lowest part of the drain area that I couldn't see from above between the outer/inner tubs. Mine finally burned out the motor so I had to remove it. That motor unit unclips from machine--like a childproof cab, lift tab with finger and twist unit off. Quarter sized hole into tub is where i found the sock.

SOURCE: water leaks during final spin cycle only

Hi,
The first thing to do is get the machine up off the floor onto a base that allows you to slide under machine on your back with a flash light. Make sure whatever you decide to lift machine up onto is very stable and durable. Bricks, blocks, or a utility cart maybe. You need to look under machine to see where the leak is coming from. You want to make sure it is not going to fall on you. The machine is not that heavy, just awkward to lift or move because of it's size. So, you could slide something under each corner, one at a time, or ask a friend to help lift it onto a base. Now you are ready to go. Don't worry, this is really easy.
Get a towel, flashlight, and start machine on a small load with shortest cycle set.(probably delicate). After you start machine, slide under and and try to find where water is leaking from. The pump is going to be a plastic circular shape thing with ridges on outside. Probably dead front center and attached to motor. If water is leaking anywhere from plastic circle thing, then this is your problem. BUT, also follow all the black hoses that are under machine. Sometimes leak can be a cracked hose or loose attachment. That is real cheap and easy. The hoses are attached with metal ring deals. You take a pair of channel locks or big pliers and squeeze them to open. There are 2 or 3 hoses that attach to pump that will need to be removed if this is where leak is coming from. Then, the pump is only attached with metal clips that you pull out to release pump from motor. No tools needed. Take the pump to sears or local appliance shop and I guarantee they will have replacement.
Thank you for contacting Fixya.com

SOURCE: My washing machine is stopping and beeps during

.I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man
who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.