Not sure if this is the model, I will need to check. We purchased a 3 door Everest refrigerator and 3 door Everest freezer, both used. Both have 1 door that slightly pops open when another door is closed. I'm worreid we won't ctahc this once and we will ruin all of the food in either the refrigerator or the freezer.

Yes, it does exist,. It is a commercial reach-in refrigerator.

ESR1 ' Everest Refrigeration

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It should be under the evaporator on top of the unit. There should be an access door that you can remove to get to. It might be inside The cabinet or on the outside depending on the model number that should be located on a tag on the wall inside the cabinet. This will be the number you need for replacement parts as they change a lot. wright down the model number and serial when you get the part.

Good Afternoon Brian - Being that you have a top mount, the vent in the freezer is what circulates air down to the Fresh Food section, making it cool. Also keep in mind that if the garage is above 110 degrees, your refrigerator will have difficulties performing optimally due to un-circulating air. You can purchase the garage kit by going to the manufacturer website and clicking on "Filters and Accessories". Alternatively, you may be able to purchase this kit from the dealer where you purchased your appliance. Here are a few simple troubleshooting tips that may help you resolve this issue:

1. First check clearances around your refrigerator. There must be adequate space around a refrigerator with a static condenser so that air can circulate properly. Proper clearances include 1" at the back and 3" on top of the refrigerator.

2. Examine your doors. If the doors have been opened too often or for too long, this may have allowed warm air to enter the refrigerator. Make sure to shut the door completely and be sure not to keep the door open for too long. Even leaving a door slightly open can allow too much warm air intake. Make sure refrigerator is level and keep food and containers from blocking the door closing.

3. Check the door seal. You do this by placing a dollar bill between the body of the refrigerator or freezer and close the door. The dollar bill should stay in place and pull out with a small amount of resistance. If the dollar bill falls out when placed between the gasket and cabinet, double check to see if the door is being blocked by anything that may be stopping it from closing. If nothing is stopping the door from closing then replace the gasket. (Most appliance owners can easily do this without any tools or sealant.)

4. Check to see if the condenser is dirty. A dirty condenser cannot release heat efficiently into the surrounding air. Cleaning the condenser may be necessary, more if you have animals in the house. If you have condenser coils, they should be wiped occasionally with a damp cloth to remove accumulated dust. The condenser coils should be wiped occasionally with a damp cloth to remove accumulated dust.

5. Check for any obstructions to the vent to ensure proper air flow. If the vent is blocked, the air in the refrigerator will not get cool.

6. Double check the freezer control. If the freezer control is set too warm, set freezer control to a colder setting and allow 24 hours for temperature to stabilize.

If these assessment measures prove to be ineffective, I would strongly suggest contacting an authorized service technician who would be better able to assist you in the diagnosis and repair of your unit. You can often locate an experienced technician in your area by going to the manufacturer website.

I think that code is a mechanical error code. Not sure. Call the mfr and see what they say. You can google the code and model number and perhaps get it there.

First off, when was the unit purchased? If it was bought after July of 2010 it has a 2 year warranty instead of just their normal 1 year. If not and the current warranty is expired then yes you have a problem. The freezer icing up is caused by a failure in the defrost system. This include a defrost thermostat, a heater and either a defrost timer or in some of the newer computerized models and adaptive defrost control board. The only way to test any of the components is to tear the inner back panel off the freezer and start checking the parts with an ohm meter and see what they read. They should all be closed circuits meaning they would read 0 on a standard continuity tester.

Hello there,
If your refrigerator is not cooling, but is running perfectly, you will have to test the door switch, defrost thermostat, defrost heater and the defrost timer, when you test them, replace the faulty part and it will work perfectly fine.
If that does not solve the problem, then check the door switch. Make sure you check the refrigerator if it is still having gas in the cylinder. If there is no gas the refrigerator will be working perfectly fine but will never get cool.
Hope this helps. All the best Elect_Comp

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator DefrostTimer Problem

WaterRunning in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigeratoror Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

I also own a model # TT18DKXRQ01 Estate refrigerator and my freezer door pops open when I close the refrigerator. As you stated, this is caused by the magnet in the freezer gasket not being strong enough to hold. As far as I know, they do not make a stronger freezer gasket but even if they did, it would probably be too costly considering that a standard gasket replacement costs $80.

My solution was to install an adhesive child safety lock on the top of the freezer near the door handle. I purchased the 'Safety 1st Lock Release Fridge Latch' model # HS038 from my local Walmart store for around $5.

You may find this solution to be slightly inconvenient at first but you will get used to it. It sure beats losing food because the freezer door was accidently popped open.

Product information:
http://www.safety1st.com/usa/eng/Products/Home-Safety/Latches-Locks/Details/482-HS038-Lock-Release-Fridge-Latch

Check the back wall of the freezer. Is there a buildup of ice on the wall?
If so, your defrost system is not working correctly.

We need a model number to be more specific.

In the interim,if there is ice on the back wall,you can unplug the fridge for 1 day. Open the freezer door and use a fan to blow air into the freezer section to help it thaw more quickly. Then turn it back on. It will work OK for 4-5 days before it freezes again.

Also check the fan motor at the compressor,make sure it is running.

the coils that deliver the cold air are building up condensation. anything that gets cold in the outside should be insulated so as to reduce condensation. hope this helps