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Cricut Explore Air 2 does not feed, remove end covers

To get the end covers off of the Explore 2, remove 5 screws for each cover, 2 screws on the bottom at the rubber feet, 2 screws in the chamber and one screw behind the chamber back panel. The first 4 screws are easy to get to, removing the back panel is difficult but not impossible. The back panel is held in place by 4 slotted channels about a half inch long each, they slide onto four tabs 2 on each side of the chamber walls. You need to push the back panel up about a half inch to get the back panel to release from the chamber walls, to get the tabs to slide out of the channels. It is very difficult to do this but it is easier if the top cover is closed and you work only with the front cover open. Pry the back panel up by levering the bottom of the panel as close as you can to the sides of the panel. Slide as straight up as possible.

Please note that there is one of six similar screws that is shorter than the rest, please take NOTE of this location so you do not put a longer screw at the short screw location. Also NOTE that there are 7 screws on the bottom of the Explore 2 between the rubber legs, NONE of these screws need to be removed to get either end cover off.

I needed to get the end cover off to get to the gears that power the feed rollers. This is located on the left side. I found that two machine screws were missing from the motor mounting bracket, only one screw was holding the motor in place, but the one screw was not sufficient to hold the motor in the proper position so the gear from the motor was not making sufficient contact with the gear of the feed rollers. After I added the missing screws the feed rollers spun like it is supposed to. I did not find any loose screws in the motor compartment but I have a large collection of machine screws and found two that I needed to secure the motor bracket.

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how to replace a bulb in a homedics soundspa lullaby model SS3000, and where to get one.

I apologize if this is posted twice. I looked into the light only coming on momentarily. The light is a LED that appears to be soldered in. To disassemble:
1. Remove the 3 rubber feet from the bottom of the unit - just pry them out.
2. Remove the screws from the holes that the rubber feet we in.
3. Tip the projector out - remove the two screws from behind the projector.
4. Remove the bottom of the unit - should just slide off
5. Pry the front and back apart - there are several tabs that fit together, but with a little squeezing and wiggling the two halves will come apart. This will free up the projector assembly.
6. Remove the screw from the projector assembly, then the front and back of the projector assembly can be pried apart - again, there are tabs that snap together, so squeezing and wiggling are helpful.
7. Once the projector assembly cover is removed, then the projector is exposed for testing and exploration.

I tested for voltage at the LED test points
I suspect that the issue I was researching may have to do with the motor not turning - safety interlock to prevent burning the disc?

Baby needed her music, so I needed to reassemble before I could explore further.

Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly - be careful not to pinch wires when reassembling the projector cover.
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How do I remove the upper housing assembly to clean out the toaster? I have a KitchenAid model KTT340OB

In the event that you DO need to take it apart, my KTT570 had two of the six screws hidden by rubber feet on the bottom of the toaster. Remove the feet by carefully prying them out with a very small straight-slot screw driver. They are essentially just rubber plugs about 3/4 of an inch in length. They are located on the end from which the crumb-tray is extracted. There are ONLY six screws so don't remove the rubber feet on the opposite end. You will need to remove the darkness knob and the handle from the end of the toast-lowering mechanism prior to removing the cover.
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Archos 5 60GB media player Audio Jack has bad solder connections

First pry out the small rubber feet in the plastic end covers. There are three of them. The plastic cover near the fold out leg can be fully removed by unscrewing the two screws, one expossed by the leg being folded out and the other exposed by the rubber feet being removed. Remove the other two screws from the second plastic cover, do not try to remove this cover. The display metal cover has three small holes along the side. Using a push pin press in each hole releasing the well designed integral spring latch at each location. You may hear them click as they release. Small rubber pads inside the assembly help separate the covers as they are unlatched. The display cover with display will lift straight up off the latches but just enough to be able to hinge it on the flex connection to one side. You will have to rest it against something as you repair any broken solder connections of the audio jack.

When closing up the Archos case do everything in reverse order from the above explanation. A helpful hint is to lay the Archos on a flat surface and slowly guide the display cover onto the latches so they just slip evenly inside, watching to insure the connector baffle and power button also slip inside the cover. When everything looks evenly engaged you can press the cover compressing the rubber pads and latching the metal covers together. replace the screws, plastic cover and rubber feet and your done.
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Steam iron will not heat.

pry rubber feet from the bottom below the two lower screw holes there two screws under the rubber feet :)
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