Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It is inside the freezer of course, it is a probe, has a metal tuber attached to it.

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

I have the same symptom too - freezer temperature flashes at -2. "Power Freezer" or setting it to any other temperature is not working either.
As a result, no ice being made. Please help!

often a blocked drain. The drain pipe should empty on to a collection bowl on top of the compressor. If you can blow sharply up this pipe, the blockage should clear.

Is it a frost build up or ... ICE.. and IF ice where is it at?

 

If frost you have a defrost problem

the problem is going to more then likely in the main control board which is on the back of the refrigerator in a little compartment this board is bad about going out if you have power surges or outages

Sounds to me like your condensor fan is not running probably control board or motor itself

Hello Gopi Krishna, Rather than enumerate the MANY MANY possibilities... as simple as an ice BLOCKAGE ... or a DOOR switch... Better ideas are also available on the following PARTS-HOUSE assistance page... Just keep in mind they would love to sell lots of parts... My first suggestion... would be to check your door closures... make sure your switches light and dark as you open & close the door... Look through your freezer vents for a SOLID frost = trouble. (not necessarily a bad thing... Fix = easy...OPEN doors... power off: 3 days)((watch-out for defrost over-flow)) http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-samsung-rs2630sh-xaa-0000.html

check the cold for what you want but the ideal settings would be 5 for the freezer and 37 for the fridge freezer can be really cold but the fridge if too cold will freeze vegetables and lettuce

It sounds like the thyristor or temperature unit is malfunctioning have it checked out and replace it if faulty.

2 years is much too short for starting problems with a refridgerator contact your dealer for a condition because of warranty on the repair you eventual will spend on it. Hidden defects are factory falts are there some holes for melting water are clogged inside the fridge somewhere An ordinary refrigerator is made for a 17-year life span. like brands as Bosch Siemens Kuppersbusch easely have that lifetime but your dealer is the right point to get your service .

• Samsung Refrigerator RS2630SHTroubleshooting Repair Help

The cost for a service call is about $100 and then labor you may end up with a bill for over $500.00 USD

If the reset procedures don't stop the beeping and you are out of warranty, here is an easy fix: 1- (You can unplug the fridge just to be cautious, but not necessary.) Remove the control panel from the front of the fridge. Mine pulls straight out without removing any screws. 2- On the back of the control panel is a black, round device - the only thing that pokes through the back of the panel. This device is small, maybe 1/2" in diameter and the same deep. (if it won't pop off easily, remove the 4 screws to remove the back cover for easier access.) 3- You will see a thin round disk inside. This is the speaker. Remove this disk, press the black speaker cover back on and press the control panel back into the front of the fridge. All the controls will continue to work as before, but NO BEEPS! Yea!

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810. The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE" Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix

We have no facility to do this for anyone. Rules in India are that you lodge a FIR with the police that you phone make and model so and so with IMEI number has been stolen and it had Airtel number. Then the police can ask Airtel to locate the number. No one else. Or best would be for your friend to dial 121 on airtel phone and ask them the procedure. They will block the number and the phone when the police asks them to.

Can you explain to me better " The rep around the condenser is leaking" Did you change your compressor and substitute 134a refrigerant with R-600a.I have not seen the R-600a yet used on the refrigerators we service for our customers.(Texas) I have heard of it being used in Europe.

Sounds like the mold sensor is faulty

It probley is just needing a new light try it I think it will work

The auger motor faulty please get that checked asap.

not to sure maybe open fan motor.So fan motor faulty.