20 Most Recent Wilton 17202 8" Bench Grinder Questions & Answers

well, with out seeing it I `d say you had a shot in the cord or switch. I hope this will help

Counter-clockwise as viewed from which end? The correct direction as viewed from the right end would be counter-clockwise. As viewed from the left end it would be clockwise. In other words, when using the grinder from the front, the surface of both wheels should be going down. If this is not the direction it turns, take it back. Good luck, Al K

Repair parts have always been a problem.

See if you can get into the electrical area ... open the bench grinder from underneath ... tie the switch wires together ... put a regular wall switch on the electric line.

I hope it works for you.

go to your local marina and buy a simple on off switch or take the wires off the switch on your grinder and hook them up to a extension cord and put an inline light switch on the cord.

There is a short internally in the motor. IMO not worth repairing, new bench grinders are pretty inexpensive.

if this is a cap start motor and not a centrifugal start run motor then bad cap is good place to start

Try Mcmaster.com (McMaster-Carr) page 2608, or enter Tool Rest or Grinder Pedestal in search engine.

Best regards, --W/D--

depends on condition and what comes with it. generally starts at $500 in good shape and up to 850 if excellent with many extras (chucks, rests, knurling attach, faceplates, etc) Also, check for accuracy...

Yes all the tool places say discontinued. Yes, bypass it, but make sure you don't overwork the grinder. https://www.google.com/search?q=2610904741 ..

Out of warranty ... time for a replacement machine.I would choose a different make. Assuming the batery is not the fault.

DIRTY CONTACTS POSSIBLY

Size for size and component value identical on replacement. Fit the correct part.

Considering how potentially dangerous grinding machines and wheels are and how much safety legislation exists about their maintenance, adjustment and use, a great deal of printed matter exists about these things and the wide range and selection of wheel material. You should have no bother finding useful information, fortunately bench grinders are extremely similar to each other... https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfimages/b6/b64b39fb-6d42-4fec-a274-76bbd950e6d8.pdf

Mmmm... that's a little more complicated. If you have a continuity / resistance meter, we can noodle it out, though. First, are the two white wires the ONLY wires coming from the motor? I suspect they are - that's not in conformance with any accepted color code, but it'll work. For the rest of this, I'll assume that the two white wires are the only ones from the motor. You'll need to meter the switch itself, with no wires connected to it. In the OFF position, you shouldn't find continuity between any of the four switch contacts. In the ON position, you should find continuity between two pairs of contacts. The black wire from the power cord should go to ONE of the two switch contacts in a pair that have continuity with the switch turned ON. One (either) of the white wires from the motor should go to the other switch contact IN THAT PAIR. That leaves you with one more pair that has continuity with the switch turned ON. The white wire from the power cord goes to one of those, and the second white wire from the motor goes to the other one. When you have it all wired up, plug it in & turn it on. If it's not right, it should immediately pop your circuit breaker. If it IS right, it should run fine. If it pops your circuit breaker, open it back up and swap one wire from the power cord and one wire from the motor.

Search using https://www.google.com or eBay.com Example of search result: http://www.1sourcecomponents.com/partinfo/Fa4-12/2bd%20trigger%20switch.htm

One turn.

Find a Single Pole Single Throw (spst) toggle switch at the local hardware store rated for the load of the grinder. Wire the switch in place and viola you are done! Machines are stupid;they can tell the difference between an oem part and a replacement.

You can get a replacement toggle switch at any hardware store look in the electrical department.

If you can't find the direct replacement check with Grainger or other industrial supply house ... https://www.grainger.com/category/push-pull-switches/automotive-electrical-and-lighting/fleet-and-vehicle-maintenance/ecatalog/N-15m5?okey=push-pull+switches&mkey=Push%2FPull+Switches+&refineSearchString=push-pull+switches&NLSCM=5&EndecaKeyword=push-pull+switches&searchRedirect=push-pull+switches&sst=subset&suggestConfigId=6&nls_boost_words=noContent

I cleaned all the wiring connectors etc and used a 4-way extension cord with an i/o switch and thermal/arc breaker surge protector thingy. I had a piece of thick cable with a molded three prong plug which I had removed from a dead paper shredder (I think??) and connected the ground to the case (previously not connected) the black to the black and white to the white. I taped the connections and plugged the test cable into the extension thingy with its switch off and plugged it into the wall outlet. Then, with the grinder switch on, I gingerly switched on the extension thingy and the grinder (sans all moving parts) ie just the motor case and spindle (held securely in the B&D workmate) and viola(!) it worked fine and built up to very fast. I switched off the grinder switch and the motor slowed, taking an age to come to rest.
Then, I fitted a grinding wheel on the left hand thread end, tightened everything and retested, using the grinder switch to start it and it spun really fast.
Soooo, I guess the secure ground is an essential feature of a capacitor induction motor. I checked some old furnace motors that were "maturing" in the basement and they had no capacitor but only 2 wires...
I am now trying to remember which parts came off last and put it all back together. I plan to test it each time I put a part back...just in case. I hate it when you fix something on the bench and when rebuilt, it won't work...don't ask about the electric starter on the snowblower..not a happy puppy!
Please, pretty please and then some, do tell me if my "fix" is wrong and I could risk all kinds of nastiness.
Thanks,
Jenni.