I would replace the capacitor anyway as they are cheap. If it is the PCB, there isn't much on it, a transformer, some resistors and a component with a heat sink probably a triac. You could take that to a good electronics engineer and they could test it at component level.
It must be very old, there are no parts at all.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Craftsman+grinder+152.211620+parts
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I know this is an old post, but maybe it will help others looking for information. I have the Craftsman 1/3-HP grinder models: 397.19580 & 397.19581. They are Split-Phase single voltage (115 V), and use a Klixon start-up current style relay - 2CR14-224. The relay is normally open. When the large starting current in the main/run winding circuit is sensed by the the relay coil (term 3 & 4) which is in series with the main winding, the relay contacts close (term 2 & 4). The one end of the start-up winding is connected to the main coil's BLK wire in the coil pack. When the relay contacts close the start-up winding is energized. The start-up coil is used to provide a boost to over-come the resting inertia of the rotor. Once the rotor reaches between 65% - 75% of operating speed, the current through the main winding circuit is reduced to the point that the relay coil cannot over come the return-springs force, acting on the relay contact arm. With the contacts open, the start-up winding is no longer energized. This should take about 2-3 seconds, if the relay malfunctions, the high current through the start-up windings (thin wires) may be damaged. Here is a diagram I have made. Klixon 2CR relays are no longer available.You may find a suitable replacement here: http://www.herbach.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=HAR&Product_
Mike Not sure what was happening when the previous reply was created, but the owners manual is part number 211260001 $7.99 at SearsPartsDirect.com That said, I'm staring at my own copy of the the owners manual and I can't really see why you would want to pay for one. The only really useful information is the parts diagram which is online at SearsPartsDirect.com. The rest is generic grinder information (support workpiece, select proper wheel, etc.) and CYA (always wear gloves and eye protection, don't remopve safety guards, don't use damaged wheels, don't stick your finger in the light socket, don't cross the steet in the middle of the block, etc.)
I`m not quite sure of what you mean but if the brushes were not seated right it mite slow it down or you mite have a stretched drive belt. I hope this does trick.
Unless the motor is a brush type universal unit, there is commonly no way to change the speed of an induction motor. There are AC motor speed control units available, but cost more than the grinder as they change the frequency as well as the voltage. There are speed controllable grinders available that use brushes so that simple electronics can control speed. Hope this helps!
An ajustable wrench for the 'wire brush end' nut,and a visegrip type plier for the opposing wheel end. Wrap the jaws of the visegrip pliers with tape to protect the spindle opposite the wir wheel. Loosen the nut on the wire wheel end,counterclockwise.REMEMBER: lefty loosey-righty tighty.
Some models have a hole at the top and under the spark cover that allows for the insertion of a pin or nail to help lock the shaft. Mine has a hole at the back of the protection plate that allows the shaft to be locked. Holding the opposing wheel also should allow you to tighten the nut as one is left hand and the other is right hand thread. The nut can then be tightened .I dont have a manual on your brand to see what they included to lock this one.
This switch is a very close fit, and it is rated for 20A 120VAC.
2LNA7 $11.09 / each
Grainger
I've used it on that vintage Craftsman bench grinder.
http://www.grainger.com/
Hello.
First of all I must warn you of the dangers bench grinders can represent. Here in Britain no one connected with a business is allowed to carry out any maintenance on any none-portable grinding machine unless they have attended and passed a course on the subject and every employer must keep a register recording what maintenance has been carried out and by whom. Grinding machines have been responsible for many industrial "accidents".
Householders and private individuals are exempt from the Law but cannot afford to be less well informed even though the five and six inch bench grinders sold to the domestic user represent a somewhat reduced risk, great care and precautions are still required, not the least of which is the use of good eye protection even if the grinder is fitted with shields.
The first problem about dressing the grinding wheel of a grinder intended for the domestic market is the tool rests are usually too small and insubstantial for the vibrating star-wheel type wheel dressing tool to be used correctly.
A demonstration would be the best way to learn how to dress a grinding wheel and there are many available on Youtube and here is a link to a particularly good video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqxfJ4DtZtQ
Finally, it is best to be aware of one little thought about problem. There is an optimum speed range when a grinding wheel works efficiently and small domestic grinders barely turn fast enough for them to be properly efficient, probably because it is reckoned price and user safety takes priority over efficiency.
The speed that is of concern is the surface or peripheral speed of the grinding surface rather than the rpm of the spindle and should that speed fall too low the wheel will not be able to operate efficiently, will become dull more quickly with a greater tendency to clog and the wheel will become hot in use and hot grinding wheels soon become dangerous.
I hope you will be able to see that by reducing the diameter of a grinding wheel by dressing it also reduces the surface speed of the grinding surface even though the spindle speed remains the same. The relationship between surface speed and spindle speed is why small grinding points need to spin at 20,000 rpm and an eight foot wheel at just a few hundred rpm - in both cases the surface speed is similar.
A domestic grinder should not be used for heavy work but as the size of the wheel is reduced it should be used only for increasingly light work and if it is desired to carry out "normal" grinding operations it would be better to replace the wheel sooner rather than later.
Sears Craftsman is usually easy as Sears Parts Direct has diagrams and part numbers.
However your switch number 31919063033 is no longer available. I would suggest checking out online places like Digikey or Newark for a switch that will work for you. As long as the Voltage, amperage and number of poles and will fit in the space provided you should be OK.
Link to Sears Parts Direct.
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Link to Newark
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Feel the power cord when that happens. If the power cord doesn't get pretty warm, and the grinder itself doesn't get awfully hot, then I'd suspect the breaker - they get old and trip too easily.