20 Most Recent Homelite Curved Shaft Trimmer Bump Feed Replacement Line - Page 2 Questions & Answers

not knowing your model number I can tell you this, a standard for 2 stroke small engines is 50- 1 PREMIUM EXACT MIX (50:1) GASOLINE OIL 1 gallon (US) 2.6 oz. 1 Liter 20 cc (20 ml you can probably locate your model manual here http://www.homelite.com/service_support/product_owners_manuals good Luck, Please take a moment to rate my research

Take a length of about 6 foot of line, kink it in the middle and pass this through the hole in the spool. Wind the two lengths of line around the spool in their own divisions and in the same direction. The direction of wind is embossed in the reel and the line should be wound tightly and held all the while. When you have about 6-8 inches left in your hand, bring the cover up to the spool and carefully pass the two ends of the line through the holes, push the cover all the way over while pulling on the two pieces of line and ensuring that the lines stay on their own side of the division on the spool. Fit and tighten the bump nut and trim the lines to just about the cut-off blade.
The lines should trail out of the holes in the direction of the machine's rotation. Try cut with the tip of the line as much as possible. Cutting nearer the drum flexes the line and will lead to early breaking of the lines. Run the motor at a constant speed and rather move the cutting head in and out of the weeds to affect a deeper cut

First off, here is an exploded parts view with part numbers and diagrams for the machine.
http://ryobi-service.net/en/item/homelite/2376.html
Secondly, the clutch does not enable the engine to run. It is a centrifugal clutch and only works when its speed reaches a certain RPM. It controls the string/blade head only. I am including all instructions regarding the removal of the clutch and pull start mechanism. It is up to you if it actually needs replacement parts.

Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a dull flat-blade chisel and hammer unless there are bolts. then use wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers or a good flat blade screwdriver.

You should be able to remove the bump knob and then the inner spool. To keep the shaft from turning, try to grasp the dust cover with some vise grips or large adjustable pliars to hold it and just remove the knob. Spray penetrating oil under it if necessary and let it soak a couple hours to remove rust and corrosion and try it again. If there are any holes above the head in the dust cover or arbor, try to insert something in there to lock it up, like a slender scredriver. Here are the line spool removal instructions. See pages 14 and 15 in this manual.
http://dl.owneriq.net/e/e795beb6-5dd6-4dbd-a82f-57b8d1a69355.pdf
You will need Adobe Reader installed on your computer to view. It is a free download if you need it.

I see that this is an older model electric trimmer. The correct model number is HLT800A. Parts for electric models are difficult to find (online). Most service centers refuse to work on them and they say it is not cost effective. They basically just issue warranty replacements. Even Searsparts direct that has parts for most makes and models only lists gas models for Homelite.So, if you can get the old head off (or even if not); take it to the Home Depot garden center and there you will find a vast array of different string heads that may or may not fit this model. I know that most of them are for the gas machines. You may even find a new electric model on sale there that suits your fancy. I have been unable to find any spare parts listed for this model.

See pages 13 and 14 of this Homelite manual:
http://lawnandgarden.manualsonline.com/mdownloads/dad45d75-2e75-4b21-815a-6e17c5148060.pdf

You need to take the drive shaft tube off the power head and see if it is broken. If the machine has the split boom, then you will need to inspect both. Just turn the end of the drive on one end, and see if the other end turns with it. If it is a one piece drive shaft, then, remove the boom from the front engine cover and turn it, noting if the string head turns too. You can fix this yourself.

Genarally the size of line for that size of line trimmer is 2.0mm

A good starting point is from a lightly seated position, back the Hi and Lo needles out about 1.5 turns each. From that point you can fine tune the machine.
This will help you:
http://www.zamacarb.com/tipspage.html

take off pullcord housing try movin the pully inside if it dosent it has seized not enough 2stroke oil in fuel

hi i dont know if this will be any good for what you need, but i have given you a link to have a look at, it tells you all the information about how it works and pictures as well if this is not what you require you do not have to accept it..thanks
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4419822.pdf
its a pdf folder just click link if you have adobe reader you will be able to read it hope this helps

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/homelite-hlt15-ut20602-string-trimmer-parts-c-18807_20299_21185.html

Here is a diagram of it. It is reverse threaded so you have to turn it like you was tightening it to loosen it. Clockwise looking at it from the bottom of the head. But there is a clutch that will let the whole thing turne. The best way is to remove the shaft from the weedeater and hold the shaft with some vice grips. Or you may be able to hold it right above the head, before the shaft tube.

Try googling.... www.homelite.com....enter your model number and they will have the illustrated parts page for you to find the correct part you need and it's price...hope this helps.

You can download the trimmer PDF for free here - http://lawnandgarden.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/homelite/homelite_trimmer_product_list.html

Give me the model number and i will look up the wiring diagram to confirm how to wire this. There are lots of different models. On some of them you need to supply a jumper wire between two terminals in order to power the clock motor. Some also had DIP switches to be set.