Top 10 Toro Lawn Mower With Toro Power Tools Questions & Answers

Self propell toro mower will not "self propell", nor can i pull it backwards

First check to see if there is a fuel shutoff under the tank. On some models there is a fuel filter screen inside the tank where the fuel line connects to the tank. If niether of these work, R&R the carb.

Casey,

My son just bought a new Toro self propelled 22" recycler and has had problems on two different occasions. The mower just bogs down to a stop and when he tried to pull the starter cord, it was very VERY difficult to pull. At first I thought the engine had seized up for some reason (no oil?), but we found the problem.

First, disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug (to avoid the engine starting); tip the mower on its side and check very carefully the pulley and transmission belt. In his case, a piece of wood had gotten stuck between the belt and the pulley. Removing it fixed the problem (now he mows a little higher so as not to get so close to any debris). (We did have one further problem after that - the engine would not start - not even fire. After pulling and pulling, checking for gas, and checking that the air filter was cleean, we decided to check if the cylinder was flooded - we removed the spark plug, wiped and dried if off, and replaced it. It started right away.)

This belt 'n pulley arrangement isn't the best idea, if you ask me.

Good luck.

I've had the same problem (I think) - the starter will not activate. First time, I found the fuse that's attached to the battery "tray" had corroded. For that I put a good coating of silicone dielectric grease on the fuse contacts and holder. This keeps moisture out. With that it was good for a few months. Now it's gone bad again. This time the fuse is good, but the battery is dead, and so dead that it won't recharge. Apparently the cause of the discharge was/is grass and moisture finding its' way into the battery area, and providing a conductive path between the battery terminals. I was recharging it regularly, following the owners manuals' instructions, so it's definitely not a negligence problem caused by me.
So, obviously what we have is a design flaw in the mower that allows grass clippings to get into the battery area. Time for a recall, but for a quick fix for your current pioblem, you might just find the fuse is corroded, and a replacement + non-conductive grease may be all you need to git'er going.

Problem is in the rear pinion gears on rear axle and the design of the axle itself. I have a 2005 model 20041 had the same problem. I found a Toro dealer that had the fix.The problem is creadted by the fact that there is too much "play" in the rear axle. You have to limit that play by installing shims, or washers First, but the 2 new rear pinion gears for the rear axle. While you're at it, you may as well buy 2 new rear wheels because the "grinding" has worn the sprockets on the reas r wheels.Next, get 2 "fender washers", 1/2" ID and about 1" OD. I found it easier to turn the mower over and set it on saw horses to work on it.( drain the gas and oil first). Remove both rear wheels, pinion gears and all the washers etc. (caution - keep all parts from one side together - do not pile all parts together - keep them seperated by wheel - the reason is I believe there is one more washer/shim on the right side than on the left). Now to put everything back together, find a spot on the axle where the washer will fit in between the standard stuff.Install new pinion gears and replace the rest of the washers/shims just as they came off. INstall new wheels and you'll be good as new!

If the engine is running at all then your sensors should be ok. It sounds to me like its starving for fuel? Once the engine runs out of prime then it starves. Does the fuel system have a shut off valve? How about an inline fuel filter? Either could be plugged. I think what you will need to do is remove the carb from the engine and check to see if its clean and if fuel from the tank is flowing easily to it. Once you have the carb off the engine, remove the bowl from the carb by removing the bottom bowl nut. Use a small can or an ash tray to hold the small pieces. Shake the float back and forth to see if there is anything in it. Some floats are plastic and some are tin. If there is any liquid inside the float there is your problem. Otherwise continue on with your diagnosis by using a bread bag wire, minus the outer covering, and a little jet spray to probe and clean the internal jets. Pay particular attention to the center main jet which will have a small perpendicular air bleed hole near the bottom and to the air vent hole that is on the face of the carb where the air cleaner mounts. Any tiny piece of chaff will cause these to plug. For reassembly, the inlet needle slides into the float, and they are held to the casting by a pin. You can push the pin out with a small screwdriver and then grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers to get access to the float. Finally, check the O ring for cracks that goes between the bowl and the casting. This is an easy job, just take your time. Lawnboys are one of the better machines.

There are a couple of things you can check;

First, check to make sure the bendix is engaging. It is the gear that meshes with the fly wheel.

If it is, then try and see how fast the motor is spinning. Don't look at the blade though. It could be a faulty starter motor.

Make sure to also check the battery voltage with a volt meter. It should read at 12.0 or higher.

Actually all you have to do is take out the spark plug and pull the engine through several times. What has happened is the intake valve was open when you tipped the motor so when the fuel ran out of the carb into the engine it saturated the spark plug. You may have to by another spark plug to get it started or dry yours out very well. The main thing is to make sure that most of the liquid gas has exited the cylinder.

One more thing.... the float needle may have tilted a bit in the seat as a result of haging it tipped on its side. This is going to sound a bit strange BUT... grasp the handle and alternately bang the front and rear wheels on the ground a couple of times by lifting the back of the mower with the handle about 2 inches and drop it. Do the same by pressing down on the handle for the front tires. (2 inches and drop)
IT WORKS!

This should get you going. IF not just respond here and we can continue troubleshooting.

Kelly

Hi my names Dane, and I'm going to help you.
The mix on the toro CCR 2450 is 50:1 I don't know if you;re having any more problems, but I wanted to include this link for you to check out. I'll let you judge.. Thanks! Dane

http://mattfleming.com/node/45

3 most common possibilities: Most gas mower carburetors have a tiny hole for the fuel to rise into the vacuum venturi throat of the intake. The hole in this riser tube which goes down the center of your float chamber to the area where the fuel sits in the bowl is only about as big as dental floss. Take the tine of a wire brush to clear it of crystallized or varnished gasoline and oxidized pot metal tube crust. When they make stainless carburetors, it will eliminate half of the heart attacks caused by this problem. Additives and condensation that settle out in old gas also can lead to clogging. Another very common problem is shearing the aluminum alignment pin in the top of the crankshaft when the mower whacks a log, root or rock. The inertia splits the alignment pin in half and throws spark timing off. So it backfires or won't run. Also check your spark by grounding the fat end of the sparkplug with a jumper cable to the engine casing, leave it plugged to the wire and pull the cord to see if it is firing. Keep spark away from fuel. Ignition points in some small engines get crusty when sitting in humid conditions. So they have to be filed clean of oxidation for proper contact and sparkplug operation.