20 Most Recent Whirlpool LGV4634JQ Gas Dryer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

HI thanks for the question. the thermal fuse is more likely to be the problem. remove the back panel. on the air duct ,to the left . a small piece of plastic with 2 blue wires to it . replace the thermal fuse .but also clean the venting ,as this can and will. cause the thermal fuse to fail thanks the appliance doc

Thermal fuse on the blower housing is open. Take back off and the thermal fuse is near the blower outlet. It is white and about 2 inches long. Part number is 3392519

First of all if you have fuses check for one of the fuses being open, if circuit breakers be sure they are ok. Next check for 240 volts to the heating element, if you have that and no heat replace the heater

When installing new belt the belt comes off the right side of the drum and through the idler and around the motor shaft, then up the left side

Check your thermostat. Put a meter on it, if it has no continuity, it's open (blown). They are not resettable.

since you know your stuff and our exhaust is clear correct,,,change your gas vavle coils ..if weak they will shut unit down in a couple of mintues..

you have a bad motor the internal overload is cutting it off when the motor gets hot and that is why it takes about a hour for it to cool down before it will come back on the fix is replace the motor which is very expensive or buy a new dryer

Sounds like felt is worn out on ends of drum. You'll need to take dryer apart to see if metal bulkheads have been damaged. May also need some new rollers, but you'll see once apart. Please contact me if you need further help or leave feedback if appropriate as that is how I get paid. Thanks for letting me help you!

I once found a mouse in the timer....gross. At least it was dried up.

You have to let us know what it is doing, and what it is not doing. Is the new heating element getting red hot? Is the motor running? Did you clean the face of the flame sensor, a little gizmo attached to the firebox?

Hi thanks for the question.I would check the coils on the gas valve . bad coils can cause this problem replace the coils. thanks the appliance doc

HI thanks for the question. the drum must be out. with a right size wrench. hold the blower wheel . from turning . with a 3/4 inch socket. put socket on the motor pulley. turn the socket clock wise . it should loosen. thanks the appliance doc

I had the same problem only a few weeks ago.
Read from other forums and found the most common solution: "replace the gas-valve coils."
I ordered the parts, replaced and found that IT WORKS!!

I hope that helps.

the ignitor is glowing??? and still no ignition?? if thats the case the thermostats are good, i would focus on the coils located on top of the vavle 279834, about 20 bucks. obvioulsy first check you do inded have gas coming into the unit

Have you checked the thermal switch? If this is bad it will run but give no heat.

remove screws under filter push in on clips under front edge of top and lift 1 screw on each side at op of front panel remove front will lean forward the pull front straight up

If your dryer turns on, but does not heat, the Thermal Fuse is GOOD. A blown Thermal Fuse will stop a dryer completely.

If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

Getting to those components to determine if they are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.

The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - take reading across the two RED leads on the heating element. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.

I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.

well your generating heat which is a good sign, either there is a blockage in your venting() most likely source of issue!) but you say ou replaced, i would then look to replacing the valve coils, 279834, about 20 bucks, easy to replace... its possible that they open the valve upon start up allowing heat, but after being on 20-30 min they overheat and no longer open not allowing heat to generate..

most likely a motor, If machine runs but not turning, either belt broke, if direct drive, motor

Okay...here's what you need to do to check out a gas dryer:

This advice is for problems associated with GAS DRYERS that RUN, but DO NOT HEAT. Ensure your dryer ducting is clear and **t clogged, first. ALL dryers require proper air flow in order to dry efficiently. If you do **t have any obvious vent duct obstructions you can follow these simple steps in identifying WHICH dryer heating circuit component may be defective BEFORE you have to disassemble anything. With the dryer plugged in and the gas supply turned on, follow these steps:

PUSH START – Listen for a “click”. You have to listen carefully to hear it. If ** “click” is heard when you push the start button, this is usually an indication of a bad RADIANT HEAT SENSOR.

PUSH START – “Clicking” sound is present, but dryer still does **t ignite. This is usually an indication of a bad IGNITER.

PUSH START – Dryer ignites, but heating circuits shut off after a short period of time. You attempt to restart, but the dryer makes a “buzzing” sound. This is usually an indication of a bad GAS VALVE SOLENOID.

Now, these initial symptom analyses will give you a rough idea of where to begin troubleshooting. These tips are NOT all inclusive, but suited for the more common problems encountered with dryer ignition problems. In theory the dryer ignition works like this – You push the start button and the igniter begins to glow. This igniter will produce a certain current potential (roughly 2.5 to 3.7 amps, depending on type of igniter) and the gas valve will open. Once the gas valve opens, you have ignition. This is a built in safety feature of the unit that prevents free flowing gas inside your home or garage without ignition. If you suspect a bad gas valve sole**id, the dryer usually has two of them. It is recommended that you replace BOTH of them at the same time. If you suspect the igniter to be bad, open the dryer e**ugh to see the burner assembly. There should be a visible glow from the igniter after you push start. If the igniter does NOT glow, replace it. If the igniter DOES glow, take a current reading to see if it is producing e**ugh current. Here are the two types of igniters are their specifications:

Carborundum – cylindrical in shape (2.5 to 3.0 amps)
Norton – Rectangular in shape (3.2 to 3.7 amps)

I hope this information is helpful. Post back if you have any questions/concerns.

PS From the initial indications you gave, it sounds like you may have a bad igniter.