20 Most Recent Whirlpool GR465LXLS Electric Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

what country are you in?
If Australia, there are no substitutes.

Have you ever tried to disconnect it from power then re-connect? (Instead of re-connecting try to switch power off, wait for 10 sec then power on - on the home power board)

More than likely a loose or bad door switcch

Hi I have a whirlpool gold range mdl GJSP 84902 and had replaced the bottom hidden element after finding out it wasn't getting any heat. So replacement took a little figuring out. it ws easy after a removal of screws and pulling out the whole oven casing out fron the front. Anyhow I still don't get enough heat generate from the bottom element, what other cause are there. checked fuses wiring all is connected HELP ME PLEASE !!!!! thank you Paul

Pull it out, flip it on its back and then try it. If it still doesnt open you will be able to see the bottom the drawer and be able to see whats going on.

Hello givemeanidth.
Welcome to Fixya

You said, have a Whirlpool electric range (model rf363pxpt0) with standalone burners - the burner power indicator light stays lit whether the heat control knob is on or off, there is no heat coming from the burner on or off. You pulled the burner from the receptacle and one of the tabs broke off and stayed in the receptacle. You removed the tab and made sure no pieces remained in the receptacle then bought a replacement burner, no change. You put the replacement burner in the back burner of the same size and had heat within 10 seconds. You changed out the burner with the one that had been in the back of the range, no heat. As long as the breaker to the range is on the power light stays lit but no power to that one burner only.

What is the model number and the age of your range?

Waiting for your reply.
Huuum

Hi, Are you equipped to check the bake element to determine if it's the problem ? You may be able to see if it has a burnt section on the element via a visual inspection. If so it is the problem, if not you'll need a multimeter or a pro technician to come and inspect it. With a meter you want to check the element for continuity (unplug the range and remove one of the wires at the element first) I will add the price of a bake element is cheaper than phoning for service "IF" you can change it yourself. Hope that help's you at least reach a place to make an informed descision on whether to attempt a repair on your own or call a pro. Thank's for visiting fixya. Please take a second to rate the info I provided for you today. Good luck in whichever way you choose. Macmarkus :)

You seem to have a loose connection. This is the first issue I would tackle. Make sure you have proper 240 vac from the supply at the terminal block. Then you need to check l-1 and l-2 against white neutral for 120 vac. The clock needs 120 vac to properly light up. Then check the p1-1 power supply connection for 120 vac. between p1-4 connection neutral . If all this is solid, then double check the p-2 connector (p.c.b.). All pins need to be matched correctly and the pin connections at the jumper harness need to be checked to see if they (one- by- one) have not backed out slightly and making a partial connection. You can use a pick tool to remove the inner tang and remove the wire connector itself individually. Then pry up on the terminal tang and insert it fully back into the connector so it will make a solid pin connection. You will be able to tell if one is bent needing correction. At p-2 on the pcb board, pin # 5 is a brown wire with a non resettable fuse internally with the wire itself. Make sure there is continuity between these 2 -points as the fuse needs to be closed. This jumper goes to the clock p-7 pin connections.