20 Most Recent Whirlpool MH6150XMS Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

Check door latch at right position or one of door switch is Brocken.

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i have the same problem, there is a brown spot about 3 inch
by 2 inch at the bottom of the glass, I cannot clean it, it looks
like its in between the glass.

The problem is in the magnetron, or the inverter board, "if 7 years old or less" and possibily the keypad control board.

The keypad control board must be replaced.

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101 ..,.,

This file should help you.
You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites.Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com
Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide

the unit inside the microwave that heats called the "magnetron" has gone bad or the circuits that power the magnetron and turntable have failed. if its under warranty still, send it back to the manufacturer. if not you can call some repair shops and see how much it would be to service it, but its most likely going to be cheaper to purchace a new microwave since they are relatively cheap these days, and electronics repair people are not cheap. hope this helps

Thank you for posting the model number. It makes it so much easier.

This is usually caused by either a top bad door switch or a loose door switch mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, & testing.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

You have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the previously hidden screws you need to remove.

Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) that demonstrates how it's done.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams (and order any other needed parts) by entering your full model number here.

When you peel off the old seal tape, it's best to heat it up with a hair dryer and work slowly so it will all come off in one piece and to minimize the amount of adhesive that has to be solved and scrubbed off.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

It sounds like the high voltage rectifier has shorted or the magnetron has failed.

There should also be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for test help, but read the safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html (if it is NOT shorted, it's probably fine)
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html (continuity can be good even though it is bad!)
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Fixed this problem! The door latches were greasy and sticking in the closed position (i.e., pushed down so not latching and engaging fully when the door was closed) and this created the problems described above. Solution was to squirt some Windex into the latch holes to dissolve the grease. The switches popped back into position (must be spring-loaded) and the door closed and latched properly, allowing the oven to function properly. I swabbed out the hole with a q-tip, let it dry for 20 minutes and all is well.