20 Most Recent Whirlpool 21.0 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator with IceMagic Plus Ice Maker Questions & Answers

Not true. Refers since the 1950's are sealed units but for safety's sake let it sit for awhile after you move it.

Higher number-colder temp.

3 things to check. If you didn't adjust the damer from the freezer to the refrigerator, like closed it off. Is the freezer fan running? The fan blows air from the freezer to the refrigerator section. Some fans shut off when the door is open so you may have to push in the door switch to check this out.
Look for ice on the back wall, of the freezer section, If present then the defrost cycle is not working. The evap. coil is icing up and there is no air blowing into the refrigerator. Set the thermostat back to the normal setting it just causes a longer run time on the freezer section.

Remove bottom and rear panel icemaker if so equipped there is a drain hole on the right-hand side next to the Styrofoam vents for the airflow that was blocked with ice

Check to see if the drain line is clogged .you have to take the covet off the freezer to get to the drain .
If it's cover in ice pour hot water down to make sure it is clear .
Next you could have a bad defrost time .
Locate your timer and change it out

check setting control to high

Go to the enclosed link for a pictorial of the parts of your unit.Have exact model number at the ready. Search Over 2 1 Million Appliance Parts

Hello All. I would like to add my findings. My fridge WBM46LS of 11 years started behaving exactly as the OP described. I tried all the suggestions regarding holding buttons, power off etc to no avail. I even found an online manual here https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/18647891/whirlpool-uk-refrigerator-models-wbm35lw-wbm35ls-/5 But that did not address the problem at all. So I went back to someones suggestion about the Potency Module. I pulled the fridge out and unscrewed the cover at the bottom left to get access to the Potency module.(Red plastic box) Without even pulling it open I could smell the burnt electronics. I opened up the case and found a scorch mark next to the big capacitor on the circuit board. So far, so good. Given that a new fridge of the same size/style is about $1300 I pursued the spare part. I then tracked down a supplier in Melbourne with a new board/module for $148.50. P# WPP326020913 Plugged in the new board in and fired up the fridge and its working just like new. So I am happy now that a perfectly good fridge is up and working again.

COULD BE EITHER OR. NEED TO TEST WITH A MULTI METER CHECK THE ICE MAKER WATER LEVEL SWITCH, SEE PICS

Thanks to all who spent money or shared their experience to have somebody do this repair, and I really mean it.
I have a Whirlpool TopLoad Fridge (not a side by side).
Things you'll need
30 minutes
Small socket for cardboard panel on lower back and panel inside freezer
Bicycle Pump
4 Towels
Hair Dryer

1. Take everything out of freezer
2. Turn dials off in fridge for both compartments
3. Pull fridge out so you can get behind it and unplug it
4. Be vigilant of ice maker line if installed
5. Pull cardboard panel off on back
On the left side you should see the back of the skinny drip pan and a small line. That line goes from the freezer and is most likely clogged.
6. Blow dry the back of the freezer enough so the ice is thawed at the bottom of the back panel.
7. Remove the two screws on the back panel. You may just be able to pull it toward you enough to get behind it. You'll see the coils and fan, and underneath these you may see some ice sheets and there should be a hole. That is the drain line that is clogged. I heated up some water and poured it over the drain to thaw the line. You may want to remove the crisper drawers and put some towels down there to catch the overflow. Once the ice is thawed enough at the drain. Go to the back of the fridge and place the end of the bicycle pump at the bottom of the drain hose. Apply pressure to get a good seal but keep pumping. You may have to go back and forth between pumping and thawing, but you'll know it is clear when you hear air going into the freezer and then the wonderful moment when water drips into the drip pan as advertised!

Keep those fridges less full so that the door stays sealed and keep the seal clean and also keep your doors from having too much stuff so the weight of the door doesn't pull away.

Okay, put it back together, turn everything on and be careful of your cord and lines when pushing the fridge back. Thank the Lord ours has wheels and man,was it cruddy underneath. Vacuum those coils underneath the fridge too for proper air circulation.

Blessings to you!
tay

are u sure its from freezer? if u have bad door rubber seals? and air gets in, then it will condensate and cause water in the fridge. if water comes in from freezer then I would say u should have not much cold in fridge as a result of bad defrost therminator

Something is causing it to trip. Could be a bad control panel. Go to partsselect.com & put in your model#.

Here is a Utube video that will do the trick. Might not be your model, but same gig. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHD556AQ894

In most cases you want the freezer to be as close to -20 F degrees as possible and the refrigerator between +36 to +38 degrees F.

One of these videos will tell you. Whirlpool 21 0 cu ft Top Freezer Refrigerator not cooling YouTube