Your drain is clogged, not the one in the wall where the drain hose goes, but the internal drain, you have to use a 7mm quarter inch drive socket and a 2 inch or longer extension. There are three screws at the very bottom of the washer which must be removed. When standing you cannot see these screws, you have to lay down and look under the washer, between the feet of the washer to find them. Once the bottom cover is removed there is a "cylindrical box" thing with a front cover, the front covers is simply screwed into the cylindrical box housing, unscrew it. Warning, there is a lot of water in here so don't be sitting when you remove it. When you get it open you will discover that this is the internal filter, you'll find small socks and coins and god knows what else in here. Now follow the drain line out and feel it from the outside by pinching it to see if it is clear, if it is clear it should compress quite easily if it is clogged remove it and **** it out with a wire hanger. Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly. This should fix you error message. And buy the way if you remove the top cover there is a "Technicians Manual" stored inside the washer under the top cover that describes some of this procedure and defines all of the error codes.
check that there is a small tube in the area as it is around that spot that the pressure hose goes up to the water level selector switch
otherwise use a short metal thread screw with a fibre washer under the head to plug the hole
you can get screws as short is 3/8 to 1/2 " and thick in diameter to fit into the hole
too long and it will bind up on the wash tub
Unplug or disconnect power to the machine and access the electronic control board. Remove the screws in the back of the top panel, then lift the back of the top panel and slide back to remove.
The electronic control board is located on the left side near the top. It's very common for that part to fail. Look on the back side for a burned or scorched mark near the relays.
Measure the resistance between P1-3 and P1-4. If the resistance is between 1-6 ohms, replace the control board. If not check the belt switch for continuity.
Check the motor windings at the motor switch. Disconnect the motor connector. Measure the run/main windings between the blue wire in back and the white/orange wire (2.4-3.6 Ohms). Measure the start windings between the blue wire in back and the Violette wire (2.4-3.8 Ohms).
Lift the idler pulley up and measure between the two blue wires to check the belt switch.
Ref. link: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/44767-Maytag-Epic-won-t-start
the main board might be damaged due to the damp and cold. the boards don't like wet and damp places as it can damage the copper on the boards causing them to go green and be eaten away, you may be able to repair the board using bridges and repairing the damage.
what you are describing is not due to the leak. There are no fuses in the unit to protect the valves. The fuses protect the whole machine and if they failed, the unit wont power on at all. There is a control panel board on the front and a control board inside the unit near the back top. Check the connections sounds like when the tech cleans the valves that he is wiggling connections that fail later again.
issue him with a written notice of the tear ( also take a photo) so that he cannot blame you for the problem
It is not your fault but normal wear and tear for a machine that old
It sounds like he is trying it on so that you have to fix it
unfortunately it is his machine and repairs are his responsibility regardless of how rough or careful you are
if push comes to shove talk with a lawyer
Error code F 21 means the drain is clogged...follow this advise for the Whirlpool washer as Maytag was bought by themthere is also this site for the washers http://fixedappliance.blogspot.ca/2011/11/whirlpoolkenmoremaytag-more-f02f21-sd.html
