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Black & Decker 19" Electric Lawnhog Mulching Mower with Rear Bag Questions & Answers
Shaft turns while trying to remove blade on B&D MM875 elec. mower
Here's the scoop on the MM875: it has a plastic piece called a "blade insulator" (part # 241381-01) that "locks" the shaft to the blade, so that you can remove the nut by stopping or blocking the blade. If it has been damaged or stripped out, then stopping the blade won't do anything. However, the metal spacer directly under the nut IS still locked to the shaft (because of its shape), so you can use a pipe wrench or something to hold that in place and unscrew the nut. You might even be able to get someone in a home improvement store to do this for you. But you will still need to replace the insulator, which is only a few dollars.
How to replace battery in MODEL # CM1836 lawn mower
Searched and searched for this, finally found someone's description on an amazon review of the replacement battery. Reprinted below. Worked for me!1. First use compressed air to blow out the six screw holes that secure the cover to the chassis. If, like me, you don't have a compressor, just tip the mower over so gravity will allow the dead grass and chaff that fills up the screw wells over time to fall out as you dislodge the stuff with a screw driver or a stick.2. After the debris is removed, use a T20 Torx driver to loosen the screws. There is a slot in the cover screws that allow the use of a blade screwdriver, but you'll need the T20 driver to remove the battery anyway. The screws need not be removed from the screw wells in the cover, but they have to disengage from the chassis.3. The cover should easily lift away from the chassis once the screws are loose. Expect to find a lot of grass clippings and cobwebs on the motor housing and the rest of the chassis that could benefit from some cleaning while you've got the cover off.4. As mentioned before, a T20 driver will be required to remove the two screws securing the battery bracket. No slots in these screws. Make note of the positive and negative terminals of the old battery so you can make the same connections to the new one.5. My replacement battery was smaller (not as tall) as the original. I made a shim out of some old cardboard to allow the bracket to be sufficiently tight. Without the shim, the bracket screws were too long. A piece of 1x wood might work as well, but I liked the give in the cardboard to get a snug fit with the bracket.6. Replace the cover, tighten the screws, and you should be good to go.
Need to replace flap on cmm1200
1. Push the mower down to its lowest mowing position.2. Turn it up on its right side, so the left side is in the air.3. The existing flap is held in place with a glob of glue at the left (now top) end. Remove the glue by whatever means you like. I "chiseled" at it with taps from a flap-blade screwdriver and hammer.4. Now you can slide the remnants of the old flap out and slide the new one in. You'll have to bend it slightly even with the mower in its lowest position to get it past the wheel, but it shouldn't be close to breaking.5. Replace the glob of glue with whatever you have handy that plays well with plastic and rubber. By coincidence I already had DAP Alex Ultra 230 Black loaded in my caulk gun - worked fine.
Wont start has never worked
it does click thats a good sign it sounds to me its a power problem battery not holding charge ? can it be wired if so plug it in and start it if it doesnt start its a motor problem if it does start its a a battery problem
How do I remove the
i uses impact gun with 3/4 " socket.run it in reverse or you have to remove the stationary parts of the motor.mark them so u will know how to put them back together & somebody has to hold the armature will u r turning the nut on the blade.
CM1936
I have the same issue on one used twice, did you figure yours out?
If the rectifier is defective would it chip tht circuit bbaker to the power source
Yes almost certainly if it (the rectifier) has gone short circuit, but you should be able to test the rectifier with a test meter; disconnect mains and rectifier, forward and reverse resistance should be low and very high for each diode leg in each direction of test leads (4 diodes if it has 4 wires)
test each leg both ways, or get testmeter with diode test
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