20 Most Recent Danby DWC283BLS Wine Cooler - Page 5 Questions & Answers

There is not compressor it a cooler not a fridge... The noise is most likely fans 2 of them one inside and one under the rear cover. remove the bad one take to R Shack ... computer fans are about the same size.

Just take a few pictures of the wires and where they attach to the board prior to disconnecting anything. Try googling the manual. Removal of the board is pretty easy and the replacement board runs $35-72.

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The cold control needs replacing. Thats the knob with the numbers that turn the Ref OFF and ON.
What I do is call my local Appliance Parts Store with my model no. They are extremely helpful .
Get freezer and ref thermometer. Ref is probably too cold.
Freezer should be 0 to 10 degrees. Ref 33 to 35
If you need more help, Go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
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ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

Hi,

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
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take shelves off. temp display unit in middle of shelf is where circuit board is for testing. pull middle unit forward and unscrew back panel. check lines for leak. color should look like a teal green. thats where your leak will be. Need tech. for the rest.......good luck!!!!

If the compressor is still running I would sugest that if you haven't had it serviced since you got it then it needs the coolant gas to be recharged.

You may just want to check the compressor and evaporator coils are clear from any dust as this would effect the operation of the chiller.

If you need any further assistance or clarification then please just ask.

The red wines at around 55°F, while you can set the other zone to lower temperature to chill whites.--- In the red wine compartment you can place max.10 bottles while you can fit 20 bottles in the white wine zone (capacity is for bulk storage of standard shape and size 750 ml Bordeaux bottles; wider, larger bottles reduce the max. capacity).---------- In the upper zone (meant for storing reds) you can adjust temperature between 50 - 64°F (10-18°C), while the white wine zone's temp. range is 41 - 50°F (5-10°C). You can set the temperature for the two zones by pressing the "Set Upper" and "Set Lower" buttons on the control panel. The selected temperature will flash on the display monitor for about 5 seconds then it'll show the internal temperature of the cabinet. --------------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor.

Before cleaning the condenser coils, unplug the refrigerator to avoid a shock hazard.

Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.

Hi,

I am sorry to hear regarding the trouble. This is a common problem on this unit. E4 refers to a faulty control board failure. Unplug the unit for few minutes, say 15 minutes and then turn it on. If this would not reset the error code, the only solution is to replace the board.

I wish i could have a better solution.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

I cannot get the upper temp. lower than 75 degrees and the lower temp. lower than 74 degrees

Hi, I do Commercial refrigeration and a/c work day to day. If this box has a digital temperature thermistor that it reading wrong intermittently, yes, it may need to be changed? They snap out with a coiled up copper or aluminum coil and bulb that attaches to the evaporator. What you need to do, as there is no voltage to shock you, is to remove the one you have, and take it with you, unless you are ordering it from the Internet. You will what to make sure the length is correct, and the opening where it snaps in. The length are normally all long enough, 48" You can also remove it far enough to get the part number off of it. I know they are inexpensive as I buy them for walk-in refrigerators and freezers, but at wholesale.You also may be having a problem with your thermostat control. If its dropping that much, and rising to the set point, this is very possible. What I would do before you buy a new thermometer, is pick up a stand alone thermometer and place in your box. If you have the same problem, its not the thermometer you need, its the thermostat control. You will need to kill power to change it out. It also has the coiled up temperature probe, that is attached to the evaporator, and you will need the Model, Serial, and part number if you can pull it out and get the numbers. They normally make universal ones to fit, but I would try to get the exact one, ( OEM ) factory control. I really think that this is your problem. Do the test with the stand alone and you will know for sure what one is faulty. Both can be a little tricky to get to the bulb, but take your time and you can do it. It will be held on a evaporator line by snapping it on. I hope this has been of help to you, and I wish you the best!
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, & Refrigeration Contractor

Mcintyre Tv & Appliances
Rr #2, 9622 Dalton Rd.
Grand Bend, ON, N0M 1L0
Phone: 519-238-8270 Appliance Doctor
82 Victoria St E
Wingham, ON, N0G 2W0
Phone: 519 357 4668 Stew'S Rec Vee Service Centre Inc
County Raod 12e G/D
Kippen, ON, N0M 2E0
Phone: 519-263-6058 https://www.danby.com/locator.php?type=dealers It doesn't state if there is in home service or not. But those are the three service locations that are listed in your area.

go at sears go to this address http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?pop=flush
and good luck with the repair

it was the internal fan in the upper rear section of the fridge. Apparently, since it is mounted so close to the rear panel, the sound seems to amplify from the back. Anyway, a replacement fan was only $3.71 direct from Danby, but I did have to pay 7.99 for shipping. Also, there is a fair amount of disassembly and re-assembly needed, which might be challenging for those who don't typically make their own repairs. Once removed, the only thing I could find wrong with our old fan was that the shaft was very loose in the unit, which may have indicated a bad bearing.

Canby may be reached at the following link:

http://danby.com/customer_service

Are you tray to "reset" the unit; disconnected power few minutes (five before to reconnected again).

If the problem come on again, try to set the temp manually accordign the User Guide.

Keep us updated.

Where is the noise coming from? Check the fan at the back of the upper compartment. They seem to be defective and die after about 3 years (just outside of warranty... how convenient). I'm dealing with the same issue now. (As search on the internet indicates that we're not alone!) When its making that noise, try pressing the back plate around the little fan and see if it changes the noise.