Top 20 U-Line Uline Origins Series Refrigerator/Ice Maker Manual Defrost-COMBO29A Questions & Answers

Probably the main board is bad.

the ice maker should have what is called a bail arm that is what measures the ice in bin if there is one it should only move up and down if it moves any other direction the bail arm post could be broken

Service and parts manual is here.http://stroboflash.com/searayproject/Docs/U%20LINE%20Service%20Manual.pdfThe procedure is as stated in solution 1 by expert Ironfist. The older units had a metal plate with screws that you had to loosed the screws in the retaining plate by peeling the gasket in the opposite direction without tearing it to loosen or tighten the screws on the retaining plate. Then you just lifted the gasket off. When you go to reinstall as previusly stated by the other expert... start in the top center and work to the corners. Make the coners fit before moving down either side to the bottom corners. Again make the lower corners fit and finally install the gasket across the bottom. Once installed rub the gasket mounting area smooth with one finger or thumb. You have humbled and hornored me with your request. If there is something that your really having difficulty with once you start this gasket change just repsond here and I will get back to you ASAP but, we will complete the task! Thanks again, Kelly

your thermostat is bloked or didn't see the reeal temperature, it must be replaced whit similar new one.

few thing can happen, bad thermostat it caused the ice maker stuck in harvest cycle, short in ice maker defrost heater, bad water valve switch or the overflow hole drilled to low, it should be 1/4 inch below the top, I seen some of them drilled 1/2 inch below and it caused water leak.

You have 2 wires. Unplug and put wires together. Plug unit back in and check to see if everything is running. Doesnt matter where the wires go with a 2 wire thermostat

first do a good cleaning as the manual describe.
check water supply and if still the problem, check power to cutter grid
should be 9 volts all the time

1st remove the icemaker from the unit. Then take the faceplate off.You might find that the support housing is fighting you.You should be able to move the arm into place as long as the icemaker is out.

This will be the inlet water valve assembly. it seems to be malfunctioning. i recommend testing for proper functions. This could be a mechanical failure.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush
or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

I here this alot. If you have a compressor on a gfi the compressor after awhile would trip it. The compressor start amps is usually higher than the gfi is rated. So you have 2 choices. Replace the GFI and try to find one with higher amp ratings. Or install a normal outlet for your unit. Your code will usually call for a gfi, If it does then replace with a new gfi.
To explain the start amps on a compressor depending on your model could be 10 amps. This is for a split second. However the gfi can become week after time. You can also try to plug the unit into a normal outlet to make sure everything is good on the unit. I believe it is the gfi

This could be a faulty relay or a bad compressor. If under 5 years old and your the original owner then call u-line for assistance. 800-779-2547

is the condenser clean? Is the fan running? If so and the condenser is not getting hot then you need a service tech to look at the sealed system

wiring diagram is on the back of the machine. If you have clear ice maker it may be on the back of the front plate.

what brand is that? whirlpoolpartsurplus.com

no, you will need to replace the gasket. U-line gasket is easy to install. You can visit their website and under customer service you will see parts locator. The gasket just pulls out of the track and the new one pushes back in the track. www.u-line.com

The hole on the bottom of the door might be cracked. What model is it? you might need a bushing for the door.

Check with your local appliance repair shop. They may have what you need out back or know where you find the part you need. They might even have after market parts cheaper.

I would think it would matter if board isn’t same as old one.

Put it in the off position. Turn the knob to the right. If the refrigerator comes on then continue to turn the knob to the right until you get to the temperature you want.The more you turn to then right colder it should be. Turning it back makes it warmer.

Since you did not mention what make it is . Its usually dirt in your door seal causing your refridgirator to understand its not closed since its not sealing properly . clean the door seals and try . Or there is a technical glitch in electrical system and you need a repairman . Also there is usually a way to disable the alarm and you need to check your user manual for that to disable it ill its fixed