Reddy Heater-170,000 BTU Kerosene Deluxe - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

remove it all from the heater clean the lines etc if you did not fire it it should be okay , but if you have fired it you will need to clean heater or take it to a shop to do

When chaning the filters, did you clean out the flame chamber, a lot of carbon and suot will build up inside and cause the unit not lite.

I would look on the makers website or ask there tech desk or just google it .

Please answer the following questions. There are several folks on the board that can help but we need to know some vital information so we can get started. Answer these, if you can:

1. Which Pro 110 do you have. We need the exact model number. Pro 110 is a series of heaters.
2. Does the heater have a spark plug or a glowbar (HSI)?
3. When the motor runs is it pumping fuel?
4. When the motor runs is the spark plug firing (or glowbar glowing)?

Sounds like the filter is starting to clog up. replace it to keep the flow going strong. http://www.auto-tune-up-and-repair-options.com/worn-motor-treatment.html

REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run! Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website. If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs. Instructions for setting the air pump pressure: Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly. Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.

1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......

M29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water. or If your plastic end cover looks like this...... M16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water. 4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle. 5. Replace plug. Test for leak. 6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed. 7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

When the rotor has been replaced, you will need to reset the clearance at the top of the rotor and the pump body for the correct operation, details can be found in your manual. Too wide a gap and you will have low pressure, to small a gap and there is the risk of damaging or scoring the new parts. Once the heater is running, adjust the air pressure so that the flame is staying just inside the combustion chamber or just around the edge of the end plate. It should be red hot and burning without any smell or un-burnt fuel. Damage will be caused to the combustion chamber if the flames come out the end like a jet engine, as well as being dangerous. It's not really necessary to use an actual pressure gauge, use the performance as your guide. Pressure gauges are a useful diagnostic tool if repairing heaters is your business, because you can immediately tell if the fault is caused by air pressure or other problems.

Bend brackit on photo eye so that it gets a better view of the flame. When cover is on the flame will move farther to the end of the heater. You can test this by holding the eye in your hand and pointing it at the flame. I had the same problem. Hope this helps.

It seems air flow problem and not enough air flow coming to it

Not really, the limit switch is like an emergency cutoff. If it reaches the limit, it shuts down. http://www.desatech.com/techDocs/DESA%20SPARK%20PLUG%20IGNITION%20SERVICE%20MANUAL.pdf

I think that this is what you are looking for. http://www.desatech.com/manuals/Construction%20Heaters/000000f7.pdf

The heater will not ignite, but this problem could have several causes! Do you mean that the motor is running, fuel at the nozzle but although there is a spark, the fuel does not ignite? This could be caused by low pump pressure, loss of spark could be the HT cables, or the ignition transformer. Is the electrode in good order?? An intermittent spark could be faulty electrodes or ignition transformer. Is the fuel clean and the correct type?? Is the fuel contaminated with water, is the fuel filter clean?? Dirty fuel could cause this problem.

I'm sorry to tell you, but your question is in the wrong category. This one is for heaters. However, is it possible you can find out about your truck by calling the Department of motor vehicles? It had to be registered sometime, and they will know. :) Don't you have the vehicle registration paper? Or bill of sale? It should say the year right on it.

Here is link that worked for me

looking for the same diagram

not a chance lol customer tried and blew the board plus ready heater is out of bis bt parts a readily avalible

go to auto parts store they have apoxy patch just for patching fuel tanks.. its a special patch material.. not to exspecive.. i have used it many times..

sounds like you have dirt in your fuel tank, as the heater runas it picks up the dirt in the filter plugging it up. When the heater shuts off, the dirt falls out of the filter. You start the heater back up and it does it all over again. Empty your tank and change the fuel filter. Should be fine then.

what is your air pressure, very important. Air pressure should be between 4 to 6 pounds.

I think the actual model number for this is RL170AT

This is a DESA manual but the same exact model except for the name:
http://assets.phpdistribution.com/manuals/Manuals_Page/113170-01E.pdf

Over the years DESA INTERNATIONAL has manufactured kerosene heaters with the following brand names and Reddy Parts stocks parts for them all:

• Reddy
• Master
• Koehring
• Knipco
• Amoco
• John Deere
• Dayton
• Queen Bee
• Co-op
• and many private label brands

If you ever need parts here is the source:
http://www.reddyparts.com/

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly