ye there are operations that can test the paint for heavy metals including lead
it is costly to do and is not worth the effort unless the quantities being disposed are above disposal limits
Prior to 1978 there was no prohibition on solidifying liquid PCB waste. The waste is subject to the regulations that apply to its condition at the time of disposal.
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No. You must determine the concentration at the time the waste is found at the site, not after it is removed and placed in the tank
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Check the lint screen and water outflow from inside the tub cylinder... socks are often lodged inside the tube. Check the filter screen on the inlet hose at the faucet (tap).
Hi.
A noisy spin cycle is usually because the bearings are rumbling and/or collapsed.
Unfortunately this is not a simple job and would require a service call and probably a workshop.
Good luck.
Nomess
It is a common fault that the drain fails to work in
most machines in a period of time and is the most problematic fault in a
washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most
important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If
you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and
fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you
look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at
the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing
resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged.
Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain pump/valve, clean the
drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power
to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened
properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be
replaced. If there is intermittent power
to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.
Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a
spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there
is no residual water remaining.
Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check
this link for tips:
You can ususally take your Hotpoint washing machine out of DEMO MODE by holding down both the ON/OFF button and the START/RESET button at the same time for about 3 seconds.The display should then indicate D OFF.If this procedure does not work for your particular machine, then please just comment back and be sure to include the exact model number of your washer next time so we can provide the appropriate procedure for your appliance. Good luck.
The first thing to always try is disconnecting it from the mains plug overnight. Then in the morning press and hold the power button for 60 seconds. Then plug it back in. The is a Power Reset on a machine that has an electronic mainboard.
Does water enter the machine? My guess is that the water inlet valve may have failed. It waits, no water comes, so it times out. There are a few things to check there, make sure there is water in the pipe, make sure the strainer screens are clear in the hose connecter on the back of the machine.
No model details given but there is help in the link.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+washing+machine+going+into+pause+mode
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads. if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps. If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker. Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etcBeware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
Typical Landlord comment.
It is a totally electronic machine. They a power reset. Pull the mains plug when you go to bed, press and hold the power button as you plug it back it back in.
Here is the manual if you need it.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/71052/Hotpoint-Wmf740-G-A-K.html
..
I have a wdal8640, after a while the condenser pipe gets all fluffed up. Remove the lid, the cross bar and unscrew the metal heating unit. You're looking for the plastic tube that bends down the back of the machine. There's a ring holding it on at the bottom, once you've undone that and worked it over the prongs on the filter it should lift straight out. Give it a good rinse and remove any stuck lint (mine was a solid block that I had to break up before I could get it out), clear the filter whilst your in there and stick it all back together. Don't forget to reattach the water pipe to the top corner!!!
Based on the description, it seems that the control PCB module is a possible cause of the issue with your washing machine. Checking for any signs of burnout on the PCB would be a good next step. However, keep in mind that handling electronics can be dangerous and if you're not comfortable or familiar with the process, it's better to seek the help of a professional.
