20 Most Recent Honeywell T8112c1007 Programmable Thermostat Heat-cool - Page 8 Questions & Answers

I already worked it out. The door has a spring clip near the top, which is not visible. You pull the door toward the top and give it a hard yank toward you. It pulls past the spring clip and opens.
Thanks

press button below where it says unlock. Enter code...1234 press up/down button until you get 1 then press select. repeat until you get 1234 on screen then press select, should unlock it.

What does 2 flashes mean ?.
Maybe the controller is bad

Where was the jumper on the old thermostat .Was it from R to Rc

possible high pressure cut out, low pressure switch, thermal overload, no fan...

What were the terminal designation on the original t stat

Chances are it's a bad daamper. You can bypass any tstat by wiring red green and yellow together. Bypass the tstat, if still blinking you'll know it's the damper. You can then swap that damper to another zone and be sure the new zone then starts flashing.

Honeywell has the manual for the RTH7600D thermostat is available on the product page: https://www.honeywellstore.com/store/products/7-day-programmable-touch-screen-thermostat-rth7600d.htm . Click on the Manuals tab. Both the installation and operating manuals are available. The current link to the installation guide is https://www.honeywellstore.com/store/images/pdf/rth7600d-7-day-programmable-touch-screen-thermostat-installation-manual.pdf . The operating manual is here: https://www.honeywellstore.com/store/images/pdf/rth7600d-7-day-programmable-touch-screen-thermostat-operating-manual.pdf . I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

Im assuming that-- you waited long enough for the valve to open you used the manual lever to check for flow same thermostat boiler isn't off on reset theres power to the boiler Do you hear the valve energize? If not-- The orange wires are interchangeable so it dosnt matter. the zone valve is normally closed so it wont open unless it gets power from a call for heat. Follow the blue and brown wires down to the control and make sure they aren't cracked. Check for water in control panel. Pull relay and look for small soot mark inside (blown).If wires have been spliced at any point remove wire nuts restrip wire and use NEW wire nuts to reconnect.At control remove wires one at a time clip and strip and reconnect. make sure the wire is wrapped around screw and tighten. If valve still isn't opening check the corresponding TT terminal connections clip and strip and reconnect.Still no water? With wires removed jump the TT terminals. If it powers after at least 15 sec then it may be either you thermostat or the wire going to it. It could also be on the water side. If the plunger inside the valve body is stuck closed or clogged you can either isolate and drain the zone, remove the brass plug and dig around or buy a zone valve WITH the brass body. isolate and drain the zone, sweat off the old one and sweat on a new one. I know...good times :-{

Refer to instructions that came with unit. Try 3.7 in instructions. https://www.instructionsmanuals.com/download/termostato/Honeywell-RTH230B-en.pdf

replace it

Blinking amber light indicates a shorted or tripped damper motor circuit. I would check to see if there's power to the damper motor if there is check to see if damper is jammed and not allowing full motion of damper. If there isn't find out why and restore it. Then test zone for proper and full motion. This link may help. http://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/97192/honeywell-truezone-hz322.html?page=2

Get it serviced. If a service switch has tripped there may be a component failure or circuit issues. Also, gas boilers are required by law to be inspected and serviced annually so if your service light is on or it's overdue for a service, only a licensed tech can service it.

So is the unit running ? Hz311 is a zoning board, how about your tstats, is air blowing in the rooms with the tstats when the unit is running?