20 Most Recent Diamondback Sorrento 26" Mountain Bike Questions & Answers

You probably have a Presta valve. Go to a bike shop and get an adapter (for about a buck and a half) it screws on that valve and then you have a regular valve to inflate

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html

Getting Riser Bars or simply flipping the stem over or getting one with a different rise and reach might give you the added height you need. If you LIKE the handlebars, the stem is the best and least-invasive option as most new ones come with front loaders (detachable front caps) that allow replacement without stripping components off one side of the handlebar. In minutes a Bicycle Shop could swap any number of them onto your bike for you to try.

If you have the right spanner wrenches and a freewheel removal tool and chain whip you can repair it yourself, but if you had those tools then you probably wouldn't have posted here. So your best bet is to take it to the local bike shop to have the hub overhauled. There are many different size axles and they will need to see it and make sure to order the right length and size, plus you will probably need new bearings. You are looking at about $10-20 in parts and about $10-20 in labor. Most bike shops can sell you a complete new wheel (minus the tire, tube, rimstrip, and rear cogs) for about $40 and up that would be in the Sorrento quality range. Usually we see broken rear axles when the bike has been jumped and if the force was great enough to break a hard steel axle, it probably flattened a portion of the soft aluminum rim too (not always, but I'm just saying what typically happens) so perhaps just buying a new rear wheel is the most cost effective fix and quickest too. If the LBS has the wheel you need in stock they can swap it out in a matter of minutes versus waiting a week or more for parts to come in from a supplier and the hour plus it would take in labor to rebuild the hub.

chances are good that they are no longer manufactured if it is more than 10 years old. Best advice is to take it to your local bike shop and see if they have the parts, or can order them and they can make sure they are compatible with the rest of the drive train (not all shifters are created equal) side note: sometimes old shifters are not actually broken and just need a good cleaning and oil flush. They have grease inside which gets old and stiff and can cause the shifter not to "ratchet" properly between gears. I always try flushing them out with WD40 (this oil is great for cleaning and bad for chains cuz it has solvents in it). Often this will bring an old shifter back to life.

Diamondback users the same owner's manual for almost all of their bikes (BMX, Kids, Mtn, and Road bikes). Sorrento's are one of their low price-point models and very common, they sell a lot of them (it's kind of like their Model T), so any Diamonback dealer will have one of these, but basically any owners manual will five the same basic operational stuff that the Diamondback manual has in it.

clip the cable end off, loosen the pinch bolt holding the cable on the brake caliper, pull on the cable housing and remove it. Squeeze the brake lever to expose the "barrel end" of the cable, (assuming you are removing cable from a mtn bike) you will see a slot in the barrel adjuster bolt, twist this with your fingers to line it up with the slot in the brake lever, now you can slide the cable out of the lever housing and with the lever squeezed you will see where the barrel end of the cable slots into the lever and you can work it out. Install is reverse.

I'm guessing you really don't know much about wheel building, truing and tensioning if you have to ask. And you don't have the tools either.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/wheel-and-rim-service

Any bike shop could assist you in determining and ordering the correct gauge and length of spokes you need. Or you could measure them yourself. I'm pretty sure the bike doesn't have boutique spokes on it.

Inop or maladjusted? Maybe it's the cables, the shifter itself or the derailleur. Either way, you can see it and we can't. Search the web for "derailleur adjustment" for a start. Other queries will also find immediate answers, some with videos. You don't need to get us involved.

Good link...

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html

A major limitation is the steerer tube length. No matter how many times you cut a steerer
tube it won't get longer.

Getting Riser Bars or simply flipping the stem over or getting one with a different rise and
reach might give you the added height you need. If you LIKE the handlebars, the stem is the
best and least-invasive option as most new ones come with front loaders (detachable front
caps) that allow replacement without stripping components off one side of the handlebar. In
minutes a Bicycle Shop could swap any number of them onto your bike for you to try.

If you had purchased the bike at a reputable Bicycle Shop they would have fit the bike to you
before you took it home.

http://www.diamondback.com/downloads/owners-manuals/

See page 22...
http://www.diamondback.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/2012_OM_DIAMONDBACK.pdf

While you're at it, get a handle on how quick releases for the wheels work or more than your seat will be going down when you ride.

Each control is binary - harder to shift in one direction, easier in the other.

Google "how to shift a bicycle" for videos

Here's a great article on that subject. The article covers virtually any multi-speed bike, including yours. One thing the article leaves out is that in order to shift, the chain must be moving, which means that you must be pedaling. But it works best if you are pedaling very lightly.
http://bicycleuniverse.info/eqp/gears.html

You will need to remove the shrouds on wither side of the Exercise bike. You will see on each crank, or at least one of them, there is a cotter pin with a bolt The cotter pin needs removing and you will be able to turn that pedal arm to 180' to the other one. Spare parts appear to be obsolete, but you should get parts for the crank arm from a good cycle shop. Very often the cotter pin needs to be filed to fit. Tightening the nut locks it in place. There are two videos, the second one refers to cycles which is where my experience comes from. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2258999/Diamondback-910ic.html#manual

Take the caps off the top of spring tube and I believe you have to have a long rod, with a socket, of what ever size it may be to loosen, tor tighten either/or the bolt that tightens the spring or loosens the spring.. Some have them some don't.. Hope this helps....

Check with the manufacturer: Customer Support I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

If the model is not right on the frame the bike has been repainted, which lowers its value. Year is not very important. Serial numbers are not very helpful, but you can try Google search for "Diamondback serial number". Also, see my tip: How to determine the year value etc of your bicycle I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

The front bearings on this bike seems to be quite standard, but there is a choice between steel and aluminum or stronger bearing cones. Any bike workshop should stock them and replace in little time at such low price, it's not worth wasting time trying to do it oneself.

Bicycle manufacturers generally only print one "owners manual" version that covers all of their bikes. They are very generic in nature. If you are looking for a resource on how to fix your bike, your local library will have millions bicycle repair manuals, Amazon, Half.com and YouTube are great resources.