I don't know what machine you have but some have clips you can push back with a putty knife or flat screwdriver just put the putty knife in the crack at the top of the front panel & slid it over till you hit something that will most likely be the clip push it in. Some have screws 2 at the bottom take them out & pull out on the bottom that will let the clip come out at the top. I would check for the screws first. Some have 2 front panels the bottom has clips you might be able to just pull out on the bottom panel at the top or use a screw driver to pry out. then check or screws at the bottom of the top panel. I hope this helps these are some machines there may be others. Good luck
Front load washers don't "agitate". Did you mean it doesn't tumble during the wash cycle? I need more information. Complete model # and a more detailed description of the issue.
It's probably the heater element that has gone, but it could be a simpler fault like the pressure switch not activating. See this video it should give you the general idea
I had the same problem. My control lock was on without the status light on. To unlock the controls I Selected and held END OF CYCLE SIGNAL button for at least 3 seconds. The lock/unlock control status light never indicated the locked position, yet my washer now works. NOTE: Select and hold END OF CYCLE SIGNAL button for 3 seconds to toggle between lock and unlock.
No agitation?
first use a multi meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.
Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
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If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? )
or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt .
Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.
usually the result of clogged hoses line or impeded water pump propeller? you have to check the hoses and pump manually , see if u can turn the water pump by hand
"F24" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor.
To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Make sure this plug is secure and not loose or unplugged. It is common for the connector plug to come loose due to vibration. If the plug is intact, check the contacts for corrosion. If everything appears as it should, then unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:
Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms
Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor.If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals.It should indicate about 15 ohms.
Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear.Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off.Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub.Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front).A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.
