Top 10 Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosned, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.

Your washer should be a direct drive unit, it has no belt. If you hear the motor running but nothing is happening you probably have a broken motor coupler. The coupler is about $10.

Pop off the trim pieces on each end of the console.
Remove the two screws that hold the console to the cabinet and flip the console back.
Remove the two clips that hold the cabinet to the rear panel of the washer and unplug the lid switch harness. The cabinet will tilt forward and slide off.
Remove the clips holding the water pump and move it to the side.
Unplug the wires from the motor and remove the clips holding it.
You will see the motor coupler.
Make sure you can turn the gearcase shaft with a pair of pliers so it is not locked up.
Post back and let me know what you find or if you need any help.

If it agitates and drains. leaving your clothes clean but soaking wet. It is most likely the transmission/gearbox. the motor is working otherwise it would not agitate. it is stuck in agitate mode and cannot "shift" into spin mode. new transmission will cost 140-170 and takes 2 or so hours to replace depending on skill level. total repair cost parts+labor $300ish you may want to ante up for a new machine at this point. if you cant to the labor yourself.
part# should be this: tho double check using your own model#
Part # AP3096209

Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains.

Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain.

Which one is it?

The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following:

1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch.
2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling.
3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case.
4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump.

NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms.

Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight.

If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate.

If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top

If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A). If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch. With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself. However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac. These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity. If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console. CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.

it is a large capacity 2.3 cf with a small case.

Yes,
Kenmore is uniformly easy to work on, everything comes off from the front.
There are two 80 models,
on the most common, newer model, the edge trims on the console pop off, there is a phillips screw in each corner, remove the screw, slide the console forward, lift up and flip over.
on the older one the console is released by sliding a putty knife or other blunt blade under the corners of the console to uncatch a clip, lift up flip over

• ensure air tube is attached (water level sensor operates off air tube from bottom of drum to control body, (bottom is not loose or there is water all over the floor))
• Blow any water out of the air tube, it should be empty when the washer is empty, water remaining in the tube messes up the pressure sensing (usually makes water level lower)
• ensure wires are connected to control body.

Kenmore pressure switches are adjustable, the adjustment is hidden.
An internal spring stretches over time and does not react properly.
to test

1. remove the water level knob from the front side of console
2. depress the lock tab at the right side of water level sensor body where it contacts the back side of the console and rotate counter clockwise 45degrees
3. withdraw water level sensor body
4. adjacent to shaft for the knob is 1/8inch bolt head, turn clockwise to raise, counter clockwise to lower water level.
5. washer can be operated with the console open and the level body removed - dont shock yourself on the cable connectors
6. test, adjust, test adjust. (water level switch may need to be flicked hi-med & back to test adjustment
7. if no effect replace water level sensor body

The water level switch body contains a small spring that is not really up to the job and stretches over years,
do this repair, on call, no parts, takes 15 minutes,, 3-4 times a month

99% of kemore washers (anything after 1950)
dont have a belt. and
the back does not come off for repair, the front does, with the removal of 2 screws

If the washer does not agitate or spin the usual cause is a plastic & rubber coupling between the motor and gearbox. replacement gearbox couplings now have a metal hub to prevent further breakage.
If this matches the problem you are trying to fix, reply & I will step by step the replacement process, its 2 screws, 2 bolts, a hammer & dowel & some time, to fix

The following link explains step-by-step how to replace the lid switch on a Kenmore Top loader:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

This is a simple repair. If you have any questions, or need additional assistance, please let me know.

The cubic feet of the Kenmore washer model 110 heavy duty is 2.8 cubic feet. Measured to the top water line 14.5 inches and using the radius of the tub of 10.375 inches

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.


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