20 Most Recent Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

No agitation or spin in any cycle? If so and the machine will drain check the coupler.

Need more information,model number, if that is the washer in the picture it doesn't have a lock. If it is the modular washer. Unplug it for 3 minutes then plug it back in. It will unlock monetarily.

check the operation of the water level unit as the wash will not start if it doesn't read when the setting is reached

wont work at all in spin cycle the started switch stops working in spin cycle

It is a faulty switch about to go bad that interupts the signal for safety. Repair Clinic.com sells them. Enter the make and model number then order it. Easy to change out ususally.

be sure the drain hose is not lower than the wash tub this will caust the water to run out, 2nd be sure the drain hose is not pushed to far into the house stand pipe and the there is rome for air to go inbetween the drain hose and stand pipe eather of these will cause the machine to siphon mostly on rince cycle or on the 2nd and third loads you do. last your house drain could be starting to back up fill the washer with water and listen to it drain if you hear a gurggling sound in the house pipe you may need a plumber to cleanthis out for you.

you will have to change the load size setting in the controls on top or you are clogged in back with rustt

Check to be sure your washer is level. If it is not then the bottom legs will screw up or down to level it. If that is not what is causing the issue then I would look at the load being uneven. If you move the clothes around in the washer does the shaking stop. That is usually the main cause. Hope this helps, Tami I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/tami_f8d2d553d5094045

Charles, I assume from your question that the washer went through the agitate part of the cycle, but just will not spin the water out. If that is the case, I would start with checking your lid switch. There could be a couple of things that might be wrong. Another poster mentioned that the screws that hold the lid in place can become loose and allow the lid to shift and does not allow for proper action of the switch. The other problem will be a failure of the switch itself. I have seen many Kenmore and Whirlpool washers have the switch break apart at the seam where they are glued together. A few times, I have taken a zip tie and wrapped it around the switch and re-installed the switch and the washer worked fine. You can try that but if it still will not spin, then you probably need to replace the switch. Hope this helps.

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

Also see the following for a more detailed description of how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission
"Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

When Loading, Always Distribute Clothes Evenly (weight wise) With A Light Load Usually Clothes Will Become On One Side Before End Of Wash Cycle--If You Look Before Spin Cycle And This Had Happened, Redistribute and restart from present position (cycle wise)

try lid switch if no motor sound if you hear motor runnig try clutch assembly try this link for instructions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVc6SZ2DD4U

hum lock switch may be defective test with a multimeter or the control board is not communicating with the switch check ur wire connections and the control board circuit for burns and cinges

There isn't a normal path for water to just drain, it has to be pumped out. Assuming you didn't turn on the timer to a cycle that allows the pump to run, the time may be defective since 'fill' and 'drain' shouldn't happen simultaneously, you may have a warranty repair need.

water coming from the bad seal on the shaft. Lift agitator, bolt underneath, loosen pull out basket. From spindle. ..seal underneath. Must take cover off first. Slide a butter knife at edges in front at seam. there's a two ,clips. in there. Usually 2 bolts up towards top on inside edge of front cover. Make sure power cord unplugged.turn basket upside down. You will see seal.