20 Most Recent GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Miscellaneous. As long as you have continuity, they are fine, and it should be around 20 ohms plus or minus

JB968SK1SS GE Profile Issues - Bake Element/ERC/Sensor

Appliance Blog https://www.applianceblog.com > ... > GE/Hotpoint Mar 18, 2013 - The broil element is about 15 ohms and the bake element is about 20 ohms so the two together will be around 35 ohms. Disconnect one of the wires ... JB705DT1BB Electric range oven shuts down after preheat Feb 26, 2017 FIXED - KEBS208SSS04 How do I remove bake element Dec 3, 2016 More results from www.applianceblog.com

Question edited for a lot more clarity. Question moved from GE Refrigerators. There are a number of thermostats in this unit. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/39xa99gd2q-000432/ge-pt916sm1ss-electric-wall-oven-parts?page=9 ..

most of the time a simple fix.... http://www.geappliances.com/search/fast/infobase/10004586.htm
you have to trick the door lock mech into cycling through the cleaning process (takes about 20 seconds)
Print Range - “LOCKED DOOR” flashes in the display

If “LOCKED DOOR” is flashing in the display of your range or oven, and the self-clean cycle has not been selected, follow the steps below to reset your control:

Motorized Switch

1. With the door open, locate the door jamb switch on the face of the oven. It will look like a small black post or dowel.
2. Push it in until the oven cavity light goes off, indicating that the oven believes the door is closed.
3. While you hold the door jamb switch in this position, complete the following steps.
4. Press the Clean pad, wait 10 seconds.
5. When the cycle initiates, press the clear/off or cancel pad immediately to cancel it.
6. Wait 10 seconds for the display to clear.
7. The door should unlock and there should not be a need for service.

Manual Switch

1. Press the Clean pad.
2. Close the door.
3. Slide the latch to lock the door.
4. Hit the cancel button immediately.
5. Unlock the door.

If the above does not correct the situation, a service technician will need to check your cooking product. To obtain in or out of warranty repair on Major Appliances, you may call 1-800-GE-CARES (800-432-2737) or schedule service online.

Your GE oven is overdue for replacement.

just solved the Loc ref problem by going to Ge customer net. By pushing the 6 and 8 numbers at the same time on the contriol board, will reset the machine. worked for me, hope it does the same for you.

Multiple possibilities.

• Being used as a night lite. (continuous use)
  
• Not using a light bulb designed for use in a oven.
• Inexpensive bulb. (very low lamp hour rating).
  
• Oven door slamming.
• Over voltage condition.
• (My favorite) Light bulb swapping Gnomes.

Please take the time to give this solution a fix ya rating.

clarkco

YES ON YOUTUBE

SAME CONCEPT FOR OVENS :: Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK: Thermal Fuse If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement. Igniter and Gas Valve Coils TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ? Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant. Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit. Air Flow and Heat The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all. Warning There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

What's very common with panel mounted buttons behind a plastic cover is that grese gets in between the plastic and the board. The grese insulates the board circuit from the button so when you push on it nothing happens. Unplug the oven from the hydro. Remove the plastic cover from the top of the board, wipe all the grese off the board and the back of the button panel. Re-install and it should fire up.

The F7 problem is usually caused by a short circuit between segments of the ribbon cable connecting the touchpanel to the ERC. Open the touch panel. Insert a slip of paper (yes paper) between the two segments of ribbon cable where it exits the slot in the touchpanel. Try to work the paper down as far as possible. A piece of file card may work better. See the attached photo. If you have a metal touch panel, also add slips of paper between the ribbon cable and the edges of the slot. I have shared my solution with over 795 folks with the F7 problem. Most report success. Cleaning the contacts is a myth. It is only a short time solution as when you move the cable you are temporarily disrupting the short circuit, but it will grow back. The short is caused by what is know a dendrite. It is a growth from the silver traces on the membrane switch conductors. If you want more technical information, contact me at [email protected]. The solution should work for all ovens made by GE including Kenmore as far back as 1998. Don't be concerned about putting paper in the top of the oven. GE places a set of instructions in the top of the oven. Many folks have replaced touchpanels only to have the problem return.

First of all, most oven thermometers move very slowly compared to the electronic sensors and controls on the oven. To make sure you are getting an accurate reading, the thermometer should be in the center of the oven, the oven should be preheated, then wait another 20 minutes after the preheat beep. If the temperature is less than 35 degrees higher or lower at this point, it can be adjusted via the controls. Usually on GE ovens you press and hold bake and broil at the same time until SF comes up in the display. Then press bake, then use the arrow keys to raise or lower the temperature setting. If the temperature is more than 35 degrees off, you may have a bad sensor, bad control board, or other problem. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeffrey_634abadf963e31e5

Per GE Service bulletin # RA 03-01: Serial Numbers affected: TZ, VZ, ZZ, AA, DA Door will not open after self clean cycle due to motorized latch motor stuck in closed position or grinding noise during motorized lock operation. Both issues are caused by interference of the inner vent trim slot with the latch arm as it travels to the closed position. Correction: Replace both the lock motor (WB14T10008) and inner vent trim (WB07T10179). Failure to replace the inner vent trim will not correct the problem long term, and subsequent lock motor failures will occur. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeffrey_634abadf963e31e5

Get better husband. Current model is clearly faulty.

http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/literature/ Try here.

Chec electrical panel box look for the one marked stove place breaker too. Off position wait 30sec then push to the on position if not marked look for the breaker with the switch sitting in the middle not on or off but rite in the middle. If u find it reset it like it says to up dare