Dewalt Jig SawDeWalt Jig Saw MANUAL ManualsOnline comBlade catch wears out too fast
I loved this tool when it was working but after not that much use the teeth that hold the blade under pressure no longer hold hard enough to prevent the blade from coming out. The mechanism that holds the blade has no catch hole, it uses a few serated teeth to pressure hold the blade in place. Unfortunately, once the pressure starts to lessen you can't tighten it down...
The battery is likely to be fine, but what about the electric motor in the saw, in rice as well? The only thing that tends to get damaged is electronic board components.
Rice only works well if it was warmed first, silica gel packs are better. A couple of days should be good, but my advice it open it up straight away and dry with a hairdryer or heat gun.
It is likely that the trigger switch on your saw is faulty and not allowing power to flow to the motor. You may need to have the switch repaired or replaced by a professional. In the meantime, you may not be able to use your saw until the issue is resolved.
The cutterhead is now exposed. If the eight screws in
the cutterhead clamp are not visible, use a piece of
scrap wood to carefully rotate the cutterhead (Fig. S)
until the screws are accessible and the cutterhead lock
lever18engages. This will prevent further rotation of
the cutterhead as you change the knives
I can't even find a part number for this in Dewalt manuals much less the size of such. There are instructions for measuring belt sizes on the web but that's it. No use searching the Dewalt web site for the belt in the product listings. I tried and it defies any seach I can come up with. I gather they must have some internal inventory system that only they have access to. So, that looks like a job for "customer service" 800-433-9258 Monday - Friday, 8:00A.M. - 6:00P.M. Or you can try their email form on their webpage. As I can't even come up with a parts number for the belt I'm a little shy to refer you to some replacement parts dealer whose product quality I would have no way of knowing even if I had the belt size --which I don't. It is not easy to even pull up specifications for the saw you designated and those don't list belt sizes. You would think it was a nuclear secret.
I had this problem when I first purchased my saws-all from Home Depot. There is a screw at the base of the blade housing. Loosen it up a little and the blade lock should pop back into the down position.
DeWalt miter saw stand dwx723 is a choice for those who prefer not having wheels because the saw has to be removed to carry the stand. It is compact and lightweight. DWX723 DWX723 comes with brackets, it folds easily and is conveniently to transport. The ends extend to support up to a 16 foot piece and come with two supports So the DWX726 rolling stand is a great alternative to the units on legs (read also Best Miter Saw Stand Reviews: Portable, With Wheels, Rolling). But it is a beast and weighs in at over 60 lbs on its own (twice the weight of the DWX723). DeWalt DWX726 stand
Considering the average domestic quality power drill has a design life of about 10 hours your saw probably isn't doing too badly.
I don't have a wiring diagram but the series-wound brush type motor hardly varies regardless of it's application. These motors are electrically very noisy and a high powered version is perpetually almost at the point of self destruction and so to prevent radio frequency interference they have to be heavily suppressed and suppression also helps protect the motor from itself.
Some manufacturers use discrete components for this purpose but some use a single component that is a network of capacitors and inductors, that necessarily is compact and therefore highly stressed and these do fail sometimes.
As a saw doesn't usually have a speed control, all the components can be checked for continuity with a multimeter unless it is fitted with a soft start, the testing of which is beyond the scope of home testing. If everything else is found to be ok the problem is likely with the soft start (if fitted).
The current usually flows through a series wound motor from the switch to a field coil, through the field coil to an armature brush, through the armature to the other brush and then through the other field coil to the neutral. There can be slight variations to this but basically the armature is in series with the field coils.
If you have power to everywhere except the brushes it would suggest a break in a field coil which is very unusual...
No power to the brushes would mean no power to one of the field coils which would mean you don't have power everywhere.
I suggest you begin dismantling and testing again...