20 Most Recent Polaris New Genuine Polaris Snowmobile Accessories / X Treme Sidecut / Out of Bound Questions & Answers

Check all electrical connections

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The check engine lights up - the piston will die soon. Will help 300 grams of oil in a full tank

Sensor thinks it's still in reverse so engine is limited.

Remove the clutch cover then the spider (special tool required) there are some washers to add between the spider and engine side of clutch shaft to set pulley width. But before you do that when engine is off does belt have side clearance? If the answer is yes, you may only need a new clutch spring as they loose tension with time and idle speed may be engaging clutch

Clean the carbs, new fresh gad and plugs.

No 1 is lean. Check fuel flow and needle and seat and any jet blockages. Blow all jets with high pressure air.
Not enough fuel in no1

indicates insufficient voltage at low rpm check the charging circuit , voltage regulator , battery ( load test) and wiring

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You may have a sticky exhaust valve due to carbon build up on the stem.

try using the choke...

Certainly the carbs should be treated as a pair and so when one is suspected both should be checked. The cylinders will be unable to perform equally unless both carbs are tuned equally and synchronised at idle and at various throttle openings. As part of the checking process it is important to ensure both cylinders are capable of performing equally. A compression test has limited use and a cylinder efficiency test is better. Injecting compressed air into the cylinder would prove the effectiveness of the valve seats and piston rings. A small amount of leakage of the inlet valve seat would make little difference to a compression test but it would make a great deal of difference to the way the cylinder performs. Another important check is the valve clearances and also the ignition timing if it is adjustable. Some engines with twin ignition systems need to have the timing set for each cylinder.

buy a new fuel pump....

Run machine and wind in mixture screw till it nearly stalls and wind it back out to 2 and a half to 3 and a half turns, you might have to then adjust the idle if by then its running. Quick jabs with the accelerate and by doing this which is like checking your timing, you can pick up by the engine running and as the revs drop back after a few times you can adjust to suit. screwed in to far and it will starve 4 air and you will have dark grey to black exhaust like having the choke on. IT comes down to screw in the mixture screw till it nearly stalls and wind back as i wrote up top, better a little richer than to lean [good luck] you will soon pick it up, more trial and error

remove the screws from the front part of the rail that holds the hifax on, then slide it backwards through a window in the track, same procedure on instalation

It probably pumps to bring the fuel rail up to pressure then shuts down. If you crank the engine and it is not injecting fuel the fuel rail pressure will not drop hence the pump will not start.

change coil the one not sparking

IT COULD BE A NUMEBER OF THINGS, I WOULD CHECK YOUR DIVE SHAFT AND JACK SHAFT BEARINGS, THAN YOUR CLUTCHES FOR WORN PARTS. IF THAT IS OK CHECK YOUR CHAIN AND SPROKETS. THAN DO A COMPRESSION TEST ON YOUR ENGINE.

By the sound of your description of the problem which was that at about 4500 RPM under load the bike starts 'popping and pulling back' it seems to me that you are experiencing a lean (not enough fuel) condition. Popping and 'pulling back' are indicative of a lean rather than a rich condition. Revving the bike in neutral does not use much fuel compared to trying to throttle it under load so testing it in neutral does not mean much. Assuming that it is a lean condition that you are dealing with I would pull the carbs off and then remove the float bowls and check out the float valves under each float to make sure they are not partially gummed up and not allowing enough fuel to flow into the float bowls fast enough to keep up with the demand when the engine is under load. Also check the main jet in each carb to make sure it is clear. All the fuel from about 1/4 throttle opening and above goes through the main jet first but from about 1/4 to 3/4 throttle the fuel is then regulated by the needle jet and slide needle. After that, from 3/4 throttle and on, the main jet is the only form of fuel regulation. Either way all the fuel needs to get through the main jet first except at idle and right off idle as that is the pilot jet circuit so the main jets need to be clean and clear. Also, as the bike is pretty old, when you have the carbs off you need to carefully examine the rubber intake manifolds that connect the carbs to the engine for cracks and splits. These manifolds should be replaced every 10 years or so as when they split and crack it lets air in through the splits and cracks and leans out the mixture going into the engine and will cause the same popping and 'dropping out' that clogged jets in the carbs will cause.

Ford didn't publish torque specs for anything on a model T but a good rule of thumb for the size of the model T bolts would be to cinch the bolts to about 30 lbs/ft and then finish each one to 50 lbs/ft. These numbers are for a 'dry' installation. That is to say screwing a clean but not oiled bolt into a clean but dry hole. Adding oil or anti seize to the bolt or hole can skew the torque readings a bit and if too much oil should find it's way into the hole one can find themselves trying to tighten a bolt against a hydraulic lock situation and really screw up the works. Fortunately the old model T does not pose much of a sealing problem as the cylinder pressure is low and all one is really concerned with is keeping the thing water tight.