20 Most Recent Mountain Shimano Alivio Front Bike Derailleur Bicycle Part 129 Questions & Answers

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments

If you mean you can't get to the LARGE chainring, that would follow as the cable must be pulled the farthest to get to it. There are limit screws for each end of the derailluer's motion. You're probably fighting that adjustment. With the shifter tension on the cable totally relaxed (small chainring position) you should be able to manually grab the front derailleur cable as it runs along the downtube and, while pedaling the suspended bike, pull it away from the downtube and reach the highest chainring and, when released, the lowest chainring without dropping the chain. That's what the limits are for. THEN you adjust the cable tension and tweak it all. Web search for procedures like "how to..." just about anything and many resources will appear, some with video.

Neither screw is for mis-shifts. Those are limit screws for the largest and smallest cogs. Tweaking the cable tension will usually bring in the indexing...

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur

It sounds like your cable is/was a smidge too tight.

Check the limit screws. It is likely that the limit screw is adjusted to keep the movement limited to the first two chainrings. If that is not the problem, alignment or damage may be the source.

rough guess, from past life of bmx.
there should be a cable that runs down to the mechanism, the cable is secured by a small nut, loosen the nut and pull the cable a little more out of the nut with pliers. tighten the nut, and try the linkage.
the shift cable stretches over time and your actually gonna make a small adjustment to compensate for the stretch. by just pulling the cable thru the locking nut to make it shorter.

hi, if you follow the cable to the derailleur at the back and look where the cable goes into that part you should see that its held on with a bolt, now just before this bolt their should be an adjuster that you can turn to tighten the cable a little bit, you know where the black outer cable goes into the derailleur at the back their should be a little screw in adjuster you can screw this out and this will tighten the cable.

how ever if you dont have this then change the gear so its on the lowest gear (the smallest cog at the back wheel) then if you undo the bolt on the back derailleur that is holding the cable if you undo it slightly you should then be able to push the derailleur up slightly and pull some of the cable through when you have pulled some of it through tighten the bolt back up and then give it a try, before you tighten it up make sure the little adjusted is screwed in all the way then when you have tightened the cable up you can then adjust it further using this adjuster on the end of the cable.

now the only other problem you may have with the gears is that over time the gear cable becomes weak and therefore goes stretchy this can cause the gears to be loose and not change correctly so if the gears dont work after adjusting then this would suggest you need to get new cables for the gear system.

CLICK HERE
this link will show you how to replace a cable so it will tell you and show you what i have just told you.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

Hi log onto shimano.com and you will find what you are looking for

The easy answer and solution is yes, which will give you the opportunity to fit a handy little device called a missing link, which will allow you to remove your chain for cleaning in the future. They are available at bike shops and cost about $6.

Go to Parktool.com it's real easy. good luck

Forget the screws as those are more for fine tuning once you are close to having it set correctly. Where the shift cable connects to the shifter on the bars you will typically find an adjustment knob (note that you may have the same type of adjustment knob where the cable meets the gear shift mechanism also) which the cable rides in. You will make much larger jumps in adjustment when using this method as opposed to using the screws located on the gear changing mechanism. Best of luck to you on the fix!!

Please be sure to rate this solution.

Regards,

Joe

Adverse temperatures can affect metal, and left idle over time the cables can stretch.. It needs adjustment. Usually the is a pair of screws on top which limit the movement of the derailleur.

Sorry, this question doesn't make sense. Are you trying to remove the spring or are you trying to adjust it?

No specific manual, but they are all the same basics https://www.google.com/search?q=Nishiki+Colorado+XC+Mountain+Bike+manual They are made by Kawamura Nishiki is a brand of bicycles designed, specified, marketed and distributed by West Coast Cycle in the United States, initially manufactured by Kawamura Cycle Co. in Kobe, Japan, and subsequently by Giant of Taiwan. The bicycles were first marketed under the American Eagle brand beginning in 1965[1] and later under the Nishiki brand until 2001. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kawamura+mountain+bike+manual ..

Multiply the size in inches by 25.4 converts it to metric.

hi if i remember correctly to size up for a bottom bracket, flip your bike upside down resting on handle bars and seat carefully not to damage anything, and where the bottom bracket go's through the frame of the bike you take a tape measure and measure the width of only the frame housing where the bottom bracket go's into this is a lot easier to do when the crank arms are removed. also on some bottom brackets when removed from the bike has all the data stamped on it depending on the type of bottom bracket. if not measure the width of the frame where the bottom bracket sits in too and that will be the size of the bottom bracket you need, then determine which type it is once you have remove the cranks arm which are attached to the bottom bracket could be splined drive or square tapered type bottom bracket basically the shape of the metal part that the crank arms push and bolt on to then match up on a cycle part website.

The front wheel is normally held in with one of two common methods. A basic nut on each end of the axle or a 'skewer' pin. On most bike that do not have disc brakes you might need to unhook the brake arms to allow the tyre to clear the brake pads. For the nut type simply slacken the nuts and drop the wheel out of the C shaped notches the axle sits in. The skewer type is a small lever on one side you swing all the way over then slacken the nut on the opposite side two or three turns. The wheel should then drop down and out.

you have a repair problem with yours?

loosen rear tire pull back and tighten when chain slack is removed

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Yes it can, This web has diagrams and instructions with pictures,http://www.bikewebsite.com/rhub.htm.