20 Most Recent KitchenAid K5SS Heavy Duty Commercial Stand Mixer Questions & Answers

Better to show it to field expert.

The Service Manual can be found at: http://www.kitchenaidparts.eu/documents/pdf/service-manual/classic-svc-manual-new-email-version.pdf Bowl height starts at page 27

Tilt the head back and look into the hinge from the front. There is a screw right in the middle, turn it anti clockwise a quarter of a turn at a time until the whisk stops tinging on the bowl.

I normally CAREFULLY drill a small hole thru the centre of the brush and get it out with a hooked probe. The brass square sleeve that the brush goes into can slide out with the brush. Make sure that doesn't happen because if it does you'll be splitting the cases to get the brush holder wire back where it belongs.

First thing check the carbon brushes, when they wear out they arc at the armature. Two black screw covers one either side of the top motor housing. The brushes are keyed to only go back in one way so make a note of which corner of the brush has been shaved off. If you look in the hole with a torch you can see the little blocker in one corner deep down. As a rule it's back top corner on one side and back bottom corner on the other side.

the speed setting is in the speed control unit which by your statement is now broken no parts around for the lovely old reliable machine which is now close to junk take it to an appliance repair shop as they may have spare from another machine or can repair the fault

Very broad question best answered by a goog google search re reliability, features, etc.

The governor should move back and forth as the speed control goes from speeds 1 through 10. It's purpose is to push on the control plate in order to obtain the different motor speeds.

I'm not quite sure about this answer but it occurs to me that it could be the governor. It sits at the back end of the armature and as the speed control is slid to faster speeds the governor moves away from its rest position pressing against the control plate. If the governor's pivots were to be binding, even slightly, it would explain the symptoms you are describing. A service manual can be found at: http://www.kitchenaidparts.eu/documents/pdf/service-manual/classic-svc-manual-new-email-version.pdf

The bearing housing is not very expensive, I'd replace it, do not overtighten the screws, it will bend the bearing bracket. Current versions use nylock nuts which tend to stay tight unlike what you have. It's only taken Kitchen Aid 20 years to discover nylock nuts.

Yours is essentially the same as the K-5SS. Follow this link to download the Service Manual: http://www.kitchenaidparts.eu/documents/pdf/service-manual/classic-svc-manual-new-email-version.pdf

Get the mixer onto its side, use the correct size punch and a bigger hammer. The last thing you want to be doing is drilling the pin out. If you cannot get the pin out it will not render the machine useless, it just means that the job is beyond your capabilities and you need to get someone with experience to do it for you.

Hi DENAULTR, I hate it when that happens. Those two “screws”’ are your mixer’s electric motor brushes. The slotted black threaded plastic parts are just the Brush Holder Caps and are the protective covers to the brush holder assemblies. They allow access to the brushes when they need to be replaced without having to take the whole mixer head apart.
From what you’ve described, I suspect that one or both of the brushes is (are) not seated properly when you reinstalled them. The brushes need to be installed so that they both seat correctly on the armature's commutator or you won’t get any ‘juice’ to the motor. See the illustration below:

I'd suggest removing them again and making sure the concave contact face rests completely on the armature’s commutator. If you've turned it 90 degrees too much, it won’t seat properly and you get no power to the motor.
It would also be helpful to have the Parts List manual on hand. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> Enter the 6 character model number, in your case use KSM50P (Your K5SS mixer falls within this manual), and select the first file KSM50P.pdf (438.31 KB) listed under Parts List (4) and then check to verify this matches your mixer model.
Turn to pages 6 & 7, titled “Motor And Control Parts”, which provides an exploded view for the disassembly and reassembly of your mixer’s electrical components, along with all the part names and numbers. Locate Illus No 47, Brush holder assembly that includes Illus. Nos. #28, 32, 33, 34, & 46, and Illus. No. 29, Brush & Spring assembly respectively.
The Parts List illustration along with the picture above regarding the orientation of the brushes should get your mixer powered back up and operational. Good luck! I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution has been helpful to you, please rate it, thanks! -hslincoln

Use this link to find parts. Have your model number available. http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search.jsp?siteCd=KAD Once you have the correct part number, you can google "KitchenAid replacement parts" and purchase from a vendor of your choosing.

Hi,have you set you speed of your rotations,maybe it's set to slow.you have to Adjust the screws in the backof the mixer,so the rotation of the motor is a second apart on the speed setting three.i quite sure that's the right speed number,I have it written down somewhere,if I can find it and it's different il let you know.ty hopethatworks.

What model is your mixer? How old is your mixer? I hate this problem most of all and it is at the beginning of every mixer fix. in the worst situations I have had to drill it out and replace the planetary and center shaft, I have used a torch which is a good solution except that it trashes the finish, the easiest way is to use a drift punch that will go all the way through the center shaft and a non metallic hammer, turn the mixer on it's side on some towels, find something to put under the mixer to support it so that you do not break the locking handle or the speed switch handle. the n as straight as you can start tapping the pin. I have found some pins actually broken inside and took forever to get out, some bent from being driven in too hard, some have the ends banged out of shape creating a lip that will not drive through the shaft, i usually start with any punch that is smaller than the pin shaft opening to get started, then when the pin is driven in enough to get the drift punch in without hitting the out side finish of the planetary i drive the pin out and yet it may require a good tap especially if the pin is bent inside, try both ends before you try getting brutal with it. one end may go smoother than the other especially if a lip has been created on one end and not the other. I hope this helps. let us know.

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First make sure it is plugged in. Second make sure the outlet is not GFCI, check it with a lamp to ensure there is power. Check the black screws on the side first after you unplug it from the wall. They will screw out with a dime or wide flathead screwdriver. be carefull this is where the brushes go. Caution: They are spring loaded. And the cap will fly if you are not careful. check both sides to make sure the brushes, little square shaped pieces of carbon, are long enough and making contact. You can pick a new set up for your model on amazon pretty cheap and they are a snap to reinstall. If this fails you have to check the rear section of the mixer to ensure the circuit board does not have any burnt pieces on it. It will be obvious when you see the tiny PCB if there are any dead components. You can also pick these up on Amazon fairly cheap. Aside from that find an appliance repair shop where you live and have them fix it.

See the two black screw heads, one on each side of the motor housing? There is a carbon brush under each one.

Speed selector is damaged and you should change it