Motorcycles - Page 9 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Outcastsuper and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=221388
What To Do If Your Motorcycle Doesn Start
Suzuki RF 900 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

1995 Suzuki RF... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=VIN+number+location+1994+Suzuki+RF+900+R&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjvoLasqoLhAhUiuVkKHSUEAPEQsAR6BAgBEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_RF_series
Suzuki RF 900 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

1994 Suzuki RF... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/bike-datenbank/suzuki-rf-900-r-rs2/gt73b/0138
http://www.transcanimports.com/downloads/Motorcycle%20&%20ATV%20Catalogue/Electrical%20-%20Spark%20Plugs%20-%20Suzuki.pdf
Suzuki RF 900 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

1994 Suzuki RF... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Anonymous if you're having trouble with your hydraulic clutch releasing-that is, when you try to shift with the clutch all the way in, it feels like the bike still "wants" to be in gear-there's a good chance you may have air in the system. Air trapped within the system defeats the mechanical advantage of hydraulic pressure-the air can be compressed much more than the fluid, so when you pull in the lever, the clutch itself is not fully disengaging.
That's the bad news. The good news is that this is a problem that may often be fixed simply by adding fluid and bleeding the system, and you're about to learn how to do just that.
1. Check the level of the fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Your owner's manual will show you how and what DOT type fluid to use. Add as much fluid as necessary to reach the "full" level. Throughout the process, either you or your assistant must remember to check the fluid level regularly during this process. If the reservoir reaches empty, the system will begin taking more air in, adding to the problem you're already trying to solve.
2. While the bleeder screw is still tight at the clutch slave cylinder, place a pan underneath the bleeder screw fitting. Have your assistant pump the clutch lever gently several times, and then depress the lever all the way to the handlebar grip and hold it (it is very important to know that releasing the lever early could result in air being sucked into the system via the bleeder valve).
3. With a box wrench, slowly loosen the bleeder screw about one-half turn. A mixture of fluid and air should come out of the valve. As the flow from the screw fitting slows, re-tighten the bleeder screw until it is snug and completely closed, but easily loosened again. At this point, your assistant can allow the clutch lever to return to the extended position. Be sure your assistant does not allow the lever to return before you have re-tightened the screw, as doing so can result in more air being drawn into the system.
Repeat steps 1 to 3 several times, until no air, only fluid, comes out of the valve (it should not sputter or hiss at all). At this point, give the bleeder screw an extra quarter-turn to ensure it won't come loose. You don't want to over-tighten and strip either the screw or the fitting, but if the bleeder screw comes loose, you will quickly lose hydraulic fluid while riding.
Again, make sure the reservoir contains enough fluid after each round of bleeding, and again fill it to the "full" level when the process is complete.
After you're done, test the clutch out in a driveway or parking lot before taking it to the road. If you have the time after you've tested the clutch leave it parked for an hour or so with a piece of cardboard underneath the bleeder valve; this way, you can see if anything is leaking. A couple of drops is most likely nothing to worry about, as there will be residue remaining from the bleeding process, but if you find any puddles whatsoever, make sure to check that you've completely re-tightened the bleed valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Fixxit/comments/2yvi2x/rf900_flakey_clutch_engagement_probably_hydraulic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tWVPdKcEDU
Suzuki RF 900 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

1994 Suzuki RF... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Www_gkdrwhit I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fenders---SCRAPE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
11. Gears---WHINE
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
16. Pistons---SLAP
17. Power Valves---CLINK& RATTLE
18. Radiators---GURGLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
21. Relays---CLICK&BUZZ
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
25. Speedometers---bzzz
26. Starters---CLICK
27. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.tlzone.net/forums/motor-tear-down-rebuild/131952-ticking-noise.html
https://www.tlplanet.com/forum/main-forums/tls-tlr-main-forum/16953-tl1000r-ticking
https://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=2335 free serv man
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2000 Suzuki TL... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.ebay.com/b/Motorcycle-Foot-Pegs-Pedal-Pads-for-Suzuki-TL1000R/177990/bn_1490221
How to replace shifter on motorcycle
https://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=2335 free serv man
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2000 Suzuki TL... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.tlzone.net/forums/suzuki-tl1000r-tl1000s-forum/86633-no-electrical-power-my-tlr.html
What To Do If Your Motorcycle Doesn Start
https://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=2335 free serv man
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2001 Suzuki TL... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Battery+location+2012+Honda+NC700X+Base&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjz6PqUpILhAhUCpFkKHbUKCRIQ_AUIDygC&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAlkEDgRzbk
Honda NC700XA Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda NC700X Owner Manual

2012 Honda... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.tlzone.net/forums/suzuki-tl1000r-tl1000s-forum/126316-f1-displayed-bike-wont-start.html
Suzuki Fault Codes
https://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=2335 free serv man
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

1999 Suzuki TL... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Anonymous the following is a systematic procedure for diagnosing fuel pump issues designed to keep "DRACHMA" to a minimum. If you need parts, check with Amazon and eBay first to keep costs down.
1. If your pump does not turn on check the pump fuse and relay and all wiring including connectors for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
1. Normal fuel pump pressure is 3-5 PSI.
2. Check any rubber or plastic tubing for age-related pinholes by removing and plugging the ends that connect to the fuel valve and then turn on the ignition switch and watch for fuel streams exiting the pinholes, if any exist, replace tubing as necessary.
3. Check for a clogged a primary fuel filter that comes off the bottom of the pump to screen out big rocks and clean as necessary.
4. Check for a clogged secondary fuel filter that's outside if applicable by removing it from the system and replace it with a short splicing tube turn on the ignition switch and recheck fuel pressure if pressure increases to normal pressure you need a new secondary filter.
5. If all the above check out OK and the pump is not functioning properly then you need a new fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.tlzone.net/forums/suzuki-tl1000r-tl1000s-forum/127388-fuel-pump-wont-prime-tl1000s.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L62uNeWU1n0
https://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=2335 free serv man
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
SUZUKI TL1000S Owner Manual

2000 Suzuki TL... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hola, An?nimo, para obtener m?s informaci?n sobre su problema y las valiosas descargas "GRATUITAS" que necesitar? para ver o imprimir, haga clic en los enlaces azules a continuaci?n. Buena suerte y que tengas un maravilloso d?a. http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/suzuki/xf650_freewind
https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/suzu/suzuki_xf650_freewind%2000.htm
Suzuki freewind Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2000 Suzuki XF... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Luis before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/59-motorcycle-repair/114719-2001-marauder-800-wont-start.html
What To Do If Your Motorcycle Doesn Start
Suzuki VZ800 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

1998 Suzuki VZ... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/280364982-suzuki-intruder-m1800r-2006-2014-workshop-service-manual $15
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki
https://bikez.com/motorcycles/suzuki_intruder_m1800r_2010.php Suzuki Boulevard M109R

2010 Suzuki... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/525974-03-drz125-no-spark-help
How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycle
Suzuki DR 125 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2006 Suzuki DRZ... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Brian engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in the process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/96-suzuki/116722-1979-suzuki-gs-750-issues.html
https://www.reddit.com/r/motorcycles/comments/623o44/2014_gsxr_750_bogging_down
Suzuki GSX R750 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

1983 Suzuki GSX... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Ste for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Thread FRONT TIRE REMOVAL QUESTION
Suzuki Boulevard C109 Wheel Removal
Suzuki Boulevard C109R 2008 2009 2010 Service Manual Download Manuals... $15
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2009 Suzuki... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019


Hi, Michael the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Suzuki GSX1300R Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
Suzuki GSX1300R Owner Manual
https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/suzu/suzuki_gsxr1300r%2011.htm
Suzuki Hayabusa

2011 Suzuki... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019

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