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1980 Kawasaki KZ1000 how to diagnose the charging system

1980 Kawasaki KZ1000, low alternator output, 10VAC directly out of alternator, should be 50 VAC. @

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  • kawasaki Master
  • 53,359 Answers

Hi, Tomcotexas before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/566707-kz1000p-charging-system-output
http://motorcyclemd.com/how-to-fully-troubleshoot-your-motorcycles-charging-system/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1102933/Kawasaki-Kz1100.html#product-KZ1000
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1014907/Kawasaki-Kz1000r.html

Posted on Jan 12, 2019

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: looking for a fuse box panel for a 1990 kawasaki

Ok, if it's not under either side cover, Kawasaki (and others) moved the fuse box to a new place. Under the saddle. Remove your seat, and look toward the tail (rear) of the cavity underneath. There should be a little black, plastic cover that you can pop off, revealing the fuse. Found it? Great. Let me know if you need more help, Bro. TT

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

polarcycle
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SOURCE: looking for an owners manual for a 1979 kawasaki

Ebay. Dealer can get you a service manual still, but not an owners manual.

Posted on Jul 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 82 Kawasaki KZ1000 LTD engine ticking/tapping

Kawasakis of this vintage have an automatic cam chain tensioner so the timing chain adjustment is not likely the problem. The chain itself may need to be replaced however, which is not a difficult job for a mechanic with a shop manual to follow the proper sequence and reinstall to specs. Otherwise, you may wish to seek professional help. If you do, ensure the mechanic knows Kawasakis of that age group.

Posted on Apr 17, 2010

Testimonial: "TY very much for the advice, I was going on word from a few people that are motorcycle techs but most of em havn't touched anything older than 2000."

  • 738 Answers

SOURCE: How do you remove the

first you must remove the lever from the master cylinder, then you will see a rubber seal this must be removed, it is not always possible to remove this seal without damage so i would suggest u find a replacment, the outer of the seal can corrode to the master cylinder, once you have removed this you will find a circlip which holds in the piston, remove this keeping a slight pressure on the piston as it is spring loaded, remove carefully so u can ensure correct reassembly of parts, in some occasions the circlip is located on top of the rubber seal.

Posted on Oct 31, 2010

daves944
  • 1050 Answers

SOURCE: need tuning specs for 1980

I think that this is probably as good as you're going to find on the net for free or otherwise.
Cheers,
Dave

http://www.scribd.com/doc/46058926/KZ1000-KZ1100

Posted on Jun 04, 2011

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29 mm smoothbore carbs on 1980 kz 1000 motor idles down real slow then shuts off


Hi, Virgil and the usual suspects are:
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1 Answer

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Hi, Anonymous Deck Height is the space between the piston dome and the combustion chamber, at top dead center (TDC). for this scenario, you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1 Answer

1978 Kawasaki KZ1000 not charging


Hi, Drhorsepower before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/vintage-motorcyle-info/108731-1978-kz1000-charging-system.html
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Hi, Lunnker1 the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
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https://www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/418788-1981-kz550-with-a-12-digit-vin
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