Question about kawasaki Motorcycles
1980 Kawasaki KZ1000, low alternator output, 10VAC directly out of alternator, should be 50 VAC. @
Hi, Tomcotexas before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
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Posted on Jan 12, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Ok, if it's not under either side cover, Kawasaki (and others) moved the fuse box to a new place. Under the saddle. Remove your seat, and look toward the tail (rear) of the cavity underneath. There should be a little black, plastic cover that you can pop off, revealing the fuse. Found it? Great. Let me know if you need more help, Bro. TT
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
Kawasakis of this vintage have an automatic cam chain tensioner so the timing chain adjustment is not likely the problem. The chain itself may need to be replaced however, which is not a difficult job for a mechanic with a shop manual to follow the proper sequence and reinstall to specs. Otherwise, you may wish to seek professional help. If you do, ensure the mechanic knows Kawasakis of that age group.
Posted on Apr 17, 2010
Testimonial: "TY very much for the advice, I was going on word from a few people that are motorcycle techs but most of em havn't touched anything older than 2000."
SOURCE: How do you remove the
first you must remove the lever from the master cylinder, then you will see a rubber seal this must be removed, it is not always possible to remove this seal without damage so i would suggest u find a replacment, the outer of the seal can corrode to the master cylinder, once you have removed this you will find a circlip which holds in the piston, remove this keeping a slight pressure on the piston as it is spring loaded, remove carefully so u can ensure correct reassembly of parts, in some occasions the circlip is located on top of the rubber seal.
Posted on Oct 31, 2010
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