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To replace the front fork oil first support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended. Remember that the FLSTC and FLSTF models have a preloaded fork spring and that the fork tube plug is under spring pressure.Then you remove the fork tube caps. And then you drain the fork oil. ON FXSTD models, your remove the drain screws and washers from each fork and drain the fork oil this way. ON ALL MODELS EXCEPT the FXSTD, remove and discard the drain screws and washers from each fork and drain the fork oil and then you install new drain screws and washers. ON FXSTD models, apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 243 (blue) to the drain screws and tighten them to 12-18 inlbs (1.4-2.0 Nm). ON ALL MODELS EXCEPT FXSTD, tighten the drain screws to 52-78 in-lbs (5.9-8.9 Nm).THEN fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80).Either by installing oz or cc's of fluid if the forks were left in the frame or by measuring the amount of oil in the tubes in inches or mm if the forks were removed from the frame and disassembled. In the latter case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.
MODELs FLSTC, FLSTN use 13.4 OZ 395 cc4.41 inches 112.0 mm
MODEL FLSTF uses 13.4 OZ 397 cc5.04 inches128.0 mm
MODELs FXST, FXSTB, FXSTC use 12.5 OZ370 cc 6.69 inches170.0 mm
MODEL FXSTD uses 11.6 OZ343 cc 7.48 inches190.0 mm
FINALLY tighten the fork tube caps to 40-60 ft-lbs (54.2-81.3 Nm).
Yes the bike needs to be off the ground, the dealer will tell you exactly how much you need when you purchase the oil. You will need the socket to remove the nut on top of the fork tube. It's a special socket, 1-3/8s", of a soft metal so you don't mar up the chrome. $20 @ J&P cycles. You'll also need 2 new Brass crush washers that are at the fork bottom when you drain the old fluid out. IMHO, if you ride aggressively, or the bike "wallows" front to rear.....usually when you enter onto a bridge going down hill, you may want to add a thicker, performance oil. For really getting a good road feel/feedback I added Progressive springs for about $75 on Ebay. Also, when removing that top nut, once it is finger loose, place a rag over it and hang on tight because it is under tension, even off the ground. I'd hate to see the spring pop it into the air, and you KNOW it will land on & scratch you paint up! I commend you for doing this much needed, unglamorous and seldom done task. Good luck. Contact me if you have any more Qs.
I'm sorry but I don't have the specs on the quantity and type of fork oil for your year and model bike. I work on the older bikes that the dealers will no longer service. But, I can describe the difference between the "wet" and "dry" conditions of the fork assembly. If you take the front forks apart, clean them out, and put them back together with no oil in them, they are considered "dry". For a simple drain and refill type oil change on them where you don't get all the oil out of them, they are considered "wet". I hope this helps, You can call you local dealer's service department and they should tell you the quantity and viscosity of the oil that goes in the front forks on your machine. They'll tell you something like 6 ounces of "Type E" oil, for example. Harley-Davidson uses these types of specs to describe their oils. If you go to a website for fork oil, like PJ1, they may give a cross reference or equivalency chart for converting H-D "Type E" to their oil. I think that would be their 30 weight oil. If the front end seems too "stiff" with 30 weight, you can drop down to 20 weight. I think Honda makes a 25 weight but not sure. Your Harley won't mind the Honda oil. BG.
The engine oil capacity is three quarts with the filter change. The primary is 36-44 ounces. Stand the bike straight up as you can safely, remove the derby cover, and fill the primary case until the oil level is just to the bottom of the outer clutch shell. Do not overfill. The transmission holds 20-24 ounces. Check it using the dipstick with the bike standing straight up. As for the fork capacity, I do not know that information. There are two different quantities. One is a "wet" quantity to be put into the fork tubes when oil is simply drained from them and a "dry" quantity when you have disassembled the fork tubes for some reason. Your dealer will provide you with this information if you call them. I'm sorry that I don't have that information.
Best is to use recommended OEM fork oil in the SAE10 or SAE15 range like Castrol Fork oil-10 or Fork oil-15, as number gets higher so is the viscocity and harder it on rebounding. When filing the fork do not over fill as it would make the fork response very stiff and blow out your seals. Good enough free advise?
dissassemble forks and replace fork seals.(and oil) becareful forks are under a lot of spring pressue. use a workbench vise to hold fork tubes. you will need the manual for this. plus you will need to know the "proper" amount of fluid to put back into the forks.
The fork oil is a very specific job needing a manual and a special tool, I don't want to insult anyones mechanical knowledge but if you have never done it before, best to take somewhere else. Engine oil on the other hand is easy, the drain tube to any softail is on the right side by where the frame meets the swing arm, has somekind of plug in it. Start and run bike for a little while, long enough to get it warm but not hot. Remove fill plug and then remove plug in drain line. Using a peice of cardboard or something put in between filter and frame , directing the oil to your drain pan instead of where ever it goes. Put 1 qt oil back in (after everything is reinstalled) start the bike and make sure the oil light goes out, when it does shut bike off and fill to the point that when it is standing upright you get a little oil on the tip of your finger, over filling may result in loss of oil cap from pressure (been there)
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