If the stator windings are good, the rotor magnets are good and the engine runs, there has to be an alternating current output from the stator and if the wiring is correct, the combined rectifier and regulator is working correctly and the battery healthy, it must charge.
I think you have missed something...
Do you have an alternating current output from the stator when it is disconnected?
Some older machines, Honda in particular, had a convoluted method of regulating the charging current using the headlamp switch and it took a lot of staring at the circuit diagram to check it through...
Testimonial: "in the morning i will retest the white wire comming out of the stator i think for this bike it should be 9.5v on acv if i am wrong please let me know i did a load test on battery ok"
9.5v seems a bit low for a 12 volt system but would be OK for a 6 volt system after rectification and regulation, especially if it is a single phase alternator. It has been many years since I have encountered a single phase alternator on a bike - not since dealing with flywheel magnetos. There is usually 2, 3 or 4 wires...
it is a 5 wire system and what would you be looking for on the charging wire with a single phase alter.? thank you
5 wires coming out of the alternator is something I have never before seen and I would need to see the circuit before I could understand it though the presence of all those wires indicates a 3 phase alternator - 3 wires for a delta configuration and 4 wires for a star. In both cases all the wires would go to the rectifier, though as I said before, one or more might take a devious route. There wouldn't be a single charging wire. Have you identified the function of the other wires?
as far as i know it is a single phase i have a white which is the charge yellow lighting blue/white pickup green ground and black/red pluse
Thanks; it makes more sense knowing the ignition is in there and the lighting has it's own output. Clearly only a modest charge rate is possible or expected. I don't know the exact voltage but I would expect around 12 volts ac, maybe more, so after full wave rectification it should produce a dc voltage of at least 13.5 and possibly as high as 14 volts, depending on the regulator...
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SOURCE: wire connector between stator & voltage reg/rectifier burnt
your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot
SOURCE: Recently having problems with my 2000 Fatty not
First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.
To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.
To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.
Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.
I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.
SOURCE: 92 virago 750. Front
You have to test all the electronics on the bike to figure out if you have a bad CDI box. A CDI box can test good and still be bad. Your problem sounds more like a bad spark plug cap. Unscrew the cap from the end of the wire and take an OHM reading on the cap. If it is higher or lower than 5000 OHMs replace the cap . A plug cap from NGK runs about $5. Replace them both for about $10 it should take care of the problem.
SOURCE: spark problems with 110 atv
this is the wireing diagram for my 200cc atv, not sure of the make and model yet ,,,,, LOOKS LIKE A FALCON OR RAPTOR,KAZUMA LOL.
kill switch ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, black wire with white stripe wire
kill switch ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, green wire
kill switch ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, light blue wire
starter button ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, red/yellow wire
starter button ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, light blue wire
remember their are 2 light blue wire,s so please check , so if its not the 1 from the kill switch then it must be the 1 from the starter button ect.
solonoid ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, left hand side thick red wire to battery
solonoid ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, right hand side thin green/yellow to red yellow starter button.
green form the kill switch to the green on the fuse box
green and red to battery
so 3x red wire to the battery pos and 1 wire for the negitive which get grounded to the frame
3 x red wire with the extented wire wich i used was blue to battery positive
1 x blue wire thats the extended wire join to blue wire the to battery
1 x yellow/green wire to ground on battery
1x red from starter motor to right hand solonoid,
and thats it atv should run ,,,, the only problem i have now is the spark from the spark plug hmmmmmmmmmmmmm
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