At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
Kawasaki GT 550_ How do you replace fork seals do i need oil etc
Just picked up a GT 550 from my a relative.
1. Fork seals need replacing. I just need How to advise
2. Bike starts but won't idle and its overflows fuae. I'm thinking sticky floats
Re: Kawasaki GT 550_ How do you replace fork seals do i...
Hi buddy to make it idle on carbs there will be a screw turn it in 1/4 of a turn with the machine sarted and on the over flow is due to the floats either to low or sticking strip the bottom bowl off the carbs by 2-4 srews then inside is the float conected by a pivot pin you slide this out once the pin is out the float will come off with the inlet fuel valve still atached by the wire cage side this valve off and then bend the tab upwards the valve was hanging on this picture will demonstrate bud or if its just sticking unfree it with wd40 and then to the forks follow th instructions on this sit buddy http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/replace_fork_seals/index.html
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
One simple way to put the correct amount of oil in the forks is >>>with the fork caps removed and the spacers and fork springs removed from the forks, compress the fork all the down, then fill it 6 inches from the top. You can use a turkey baster (marked and measured) to remove the un-wanted oil if you overfill it.
no buddy this is just a decal i would go on ebay to purchase the seals alot cheaper than from manufactures make sure you get the dust seals and oil seals
I was told by many people it was a hard job. I didn't think so.
What you need is: New Seals. 8mm Allen Key. Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender. Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device. Fork Oil + Measuring Jug. Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end. Spanners. Screw Drivers.
How to do:
First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)
Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.
Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.
Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).
From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.
Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.
Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).
Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.
Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.
Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.
If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.
One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.
Clean Everything.
Clean Again.
Polish Tube.
Clean Again.
Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.
Place New Oil Seal on Gently.
Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.
Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.
Slide Slider back onto Tube.
Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)
Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.
Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.
Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.
Replace Spring into Fork.
Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).
Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)
After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.
Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.
Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.
Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel
Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.
Replace back onto bike Calipers.
Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.
At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.
Remove front wheel. Loosen fork tube clamps at top and bottom of triple clamps. Slide fork tubes out and remove. Access to seals is from top of tube. Remove cover and unscrew cap. Shop manual for specific bike is $24-$30. Will show detailed instructions.
Angela, do you have a Clymer, Hayne, or service manual for the bike? If not you should get one, there is a lot of valuable information in there even if you don't do all the work yourself.
Replacing the fork seal requires putting the front end in the air, disconnecting everything from the front wheel (brake lines, speedometer cable if there is one), and dropping the wheel and fork tubes CAREFULLY to separate the two pieces of the fork tubes. Then grab the old seal and replace it with the new seal.
This short description is a VERY abbreviated and simplified version. It's not hard once you have done it a couple times but be very careful not to bend anything in your forks. They have springs inside them too. Change the oil while you are in there. Usually 10 or 15 weight fork oil but look in your manual. If you can't find a manual post again with your bike's year and we will see what we can come up with.
You just needed to.... remove front wheel, support bike on something, undo retaining bolts on forks, tap out fork legs from the top, using a soft mallet. Take out fork seals with a seal pick, (halfords) Replace old seal with new seals, in reverse order) sliding over the fork leg, tapping into place. Then put replace forks etc in reverse order (from dissassembly). Hope this helps
This all depends on what size forks you have, but a good rule of thumb is 120ml. After that then what you want to do is to ride the bike and make adjustments to your front end until your liking.
×