There is a slight oil leak at the top forward bolt on the clutch plate cover. It only leaks while it's running. Are there any ways to plug it up or do I have to remove/replace, etc again?
If you do not want to drain the oil, lay the bike (CARFULLY!) down on its left side.. let the oil settle down, Remove the right case, carefully clean ALL the gasket material off the engine case and the cover! make sure there are no dents, dings, scratches, etc on either surface!! Get some quality gasket sealer - NOT ANY FORM OF SILICONE SEALANT!!! I prefer yamabond #4. CARFULLY PUT A small BEAD around the face of the outer case cover face and place the NEW GENUINE OEM GASKET onto the case and make sure its seated fully around the case, you can use the screws to hold it in place until it dries. WAIT until overnight and it fully dried and seated/sealed. Now, carefully put a small amount of good heavy grease on the gasket then carefully install the case ..tightening in a criss-cross pattern until completely seated, then fully tighten all fasteners. If you do it right,, it will NOT leak!
replace the pcv valve. If it is not working it will allow pressure to build up in the crankcase. this will cause leaks everywhere.
SOURCE: Leaks oil looks like from valve cover
You have to remove the spark plugs cables and remove the four nuts that you see when the cables are removed.
When the four nuts are removed, simply raise the valuve cover. When replacing the gasket, make sure you get the gromets as well. Those sometimes get worn or crack since they are more exposed than the value cover gasket. Make sure that you clean the cover from oil and replace the gasket with no use of silicon.
Good Luck.
SOURCE: oil leaking from clutch push lever
Sounds like a worn seal. If you remove the cover and knock out the seal any atv dealer should be able to replace it.
SOURCE: Change oil in 2004 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic, procedure?
i think the oil filter is at the front behind a round finned cover, if you find the drain plug it should be right above it, it shoud tell you how much oil it takes right next to the filler
The crankshaft oils seals are known to leak after approx 100,000 miles. The Harmonic Balancer (fan belt pulley) end of the engine will have lots of oil and road grit around the oil pan, air conditioning compressor, power steering pump and other area in the engine bay due to wind spread. This seal can be replace without removing the engine. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt and use a pulley puller. If the seal mating surface is grooved replace the balancer too or the new seal will fail soon.
The transmission "bell housing" will weep oil and or trans fluid if the rear crankshaft seal or the transmission seal develops a leak. This seal is much larger than the front seal so it lasts longer and need replacing less often. The transmission will need to be removed from the car to reach these seals.
The oil pan is sealed with silicone engine sealant and will dry out and leak also. Sometimes the leak looks like it is the front or rear seal (pulley or transmission end of engine) but it may be the oil pan leaking and dripping into the pressure plate inspection plate or the pulley. The oil pan can be removed and resealed without removing the engine or transmission but it is a little tricky. Dropping the engine's under brace and exhaust pipe is recommended. Additional engine/transmission support is needed to do that.
While you are under the car look near the oil filter. Above and forward (toward the fan belt is forward) and see if there is oil dripping from the oil pressure sending unit wire. It will leak into the electrical connector. Squeeze it and see if oil seeps out. If so replace the sending unit. It looks kind of like a spark plug screwed into the block.
Near the oil filter you will see the power steering pump mounted to the side of the pulley end of the engine and it is over the right CV drive axle and has several hoses connected. One larger hose is a none pressure hose that gravity feeds the pump from the fluid reservoir mounted above it on the passenger side wheel well in the engine bay. This hose eventually leaks and drips power steering fluid everywhere! It is a molded hose from the dealer parts dept. and relatively easy to replace. Messy but do-able.
Now the top side of the engine. The valve cover has a rubber gasket that shrinks over time in that hot engine bay. Take a Phillips head screw driver is see how loose the screws holding it are. Really loose hu? You can tighten them but you should replace it because it shrunk and that makes the screws loose.
You will need some silicone engine sealant each side of the distributor bridge at the driver's side of the cover. Get a manual to make sure you tighten those screws in the correct order.
Distributor "O"ring seal can leak. Two 12MM bolts to remove it and put a new "O"ring on and you are set. Mark the Distributor's position to the bridge bracket BEFORE you loosen those screws. Line it back up to the marks so you don't mess up the timing and reset the timing after is even better.
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