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There is 55mm of sage in the forks, way to much for my liking the bikes only done 3600kms, can you use spacers in the forks or do you have to by new springs. thanks
Re: There is 55mm of sage in the forks, way to much for...
Try adding an inch (26mm) of fork oil to each fork. Be sure the fork oil level is the same in each fork. Normally there is 3 to 5 inches of air at the top of each fork.
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I assume you have checked the fan when you say ITSELF IS WORKING but it does not come on automatically at a high temperature. Check the temperature sensor by shorting across the wires. If the fan doesn't come on then I would suggest the problem is the sensor. If the fan does come on then maybe the sensor is the wrong one.
To change the fork seals in a 2004 FXD you will need to remove the forks from the bike and then drain the oil and then remove the dust seal and the retaining ring and spacer from the top of the fork and then remove the Allen head screw from the bottom of the fork to release the fork tube and then using the fork tube like a slide hammer drive the upper bushing, seal and spacer out the top of the slider. While apart you should also inspect the rings and bushings etc. You will need a special seal driver to reinstall the upper bushing, seal and spacer and then you will need to accurately refill the fluid to the correct level/amount. FXD/FXDL uses 10.6 OZ or 0.31 cc of Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) and the level measurement is 6.69 inches or 169.9 mm. Be very careful and accurate with the oil level as too much or too little will adversely affect the function, ride and steering of the bike. It is best to use a fork oil level gauge and set it so that the ring will sit 6.69 inches or 169.9 mm from the end of the tube and secure it at that position. If your gauge has a plunger cylinder on it push the plunger on the cylinder all the way in and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider, insert the tube until the ring rests flat on top of the fork tube and pull the plunger out to suck up excess oil from the fork tube. If no oil is sucked up into the gauge cylinder you need to add more oil until there is enough excess oil in the fork tube to have an excess amount sucked out of the fork tube. In this manner the gauges and cylinder will accurately set the fork oil level. If you have a vacuum operated gauge such as with a tool that attaches to a vacuum brake bleeder you will set the tool at 6.69 inches or 169.9mm as with the other type of tool and operate it the same way to remove excess oil to a precise and accurate specified fork oil level which is very important as an incorrect oil level can adversely affect motorcycle handling.
Have you had the bike a while? When did you start noticing this problem? Changing the fork oil should help a bit. Just like engine oil, fork oil does break down over time and should be replaced. Also, there are springs in the fork tubes that might be worn out like any other spring does over time. You can either replace the fork oil and springs, or the fork oil and add a spacer.
There shouldn't be anything to putting the front wheel on your bike. On each side of the wheel, there is a seal and a "spacer" inside the seal. If this is spacer is in the seal on each side of your wheel, put the wheel between the forks and slide the axle in. The large end of the axle pulls all the way in against the "spacer" on that side and this pulls the "spacer" on the other side tight against the fork on the other side. Tighten the axle nut to 50-60 foot pounds and the clamp bolts to 25 foot pounds of torque. If you still want a diagram, the best I can do is to direct you to this site. http://www.bikebandit.com Select OEM parts, then choose your bike and go to the drawing for wheels.
Get the bike up off the ground and make sure it's secure. Remove the rear wheel and the rear shocks. Look for anything else that may be attached to the swing arm such a brake rod return springs etc.
Once you have everthing off the swing arm, take the pivot bolt out and the swing arm with the bearings slides off the frame. Remvove the screw and lockwasher, bearing lockwasher, the right bearing locknut, and the bearing outer spacer. Using a punch, turn out the left bearing locknut from the fork hub and remove the spacer. From inside the fork, press or drive out the bearings and bearing spacers by applying pressure against the spacer. Press or drive out the bearing shields from fork inner side.
You don't need one it can be done with a good pair of long snipe nosed pliers Open them up & place them on lip of spring with enough protruding to press down on both sides(you may need help) until the spacer drops to reveal the piston rod nut, then tilt the top of the spacer sideways & release pressure until the spacer sits on the nut Good Luck Hope this helps. (If it does then please mark this as
'very useful') Ride Safe Bike-Doc
do the math oem fork spread/same as new forks if so check total hub width of old wheel including original spacers reproduce that width and add or subtract difference from new wheel this is how much longer or shorter spacers need to be
front axle installation: looking at the front of the bike:
slide the wheel into position and insert the axle from the left. with axle now through the right hand fork, install nut and tighten the left fork pinch bolts to secure the axle for tightening the nut. tighten the nut to 29.5 ftlbs. and loosen the left pinch bolts. now tighten the right pinch bolts and compress the front suspension while the left (from front) is still loose. now allow suspension to rest naturally and tighten all 4 pinch bolts to 11 ftlbs. your done.......the axle is tighten against the rotor side and the other fork is then tighten in it's natural position so as not to cause premature seal and bushing failure and increasing stiction.
The cable will attatch to the back of the speedo, and attatch at the front wheel. You should have a speedo spacer installed on the left side of the rim ( between the tire and the front left fork leg ) . It screws into the spacer. then there is a little locking set screw to hold the cable from unscrewing itself.
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