How to adjust clutch

You can try adjusting couch cable to specs. If that don't do it you may have to adjust cluch throw out bearing, to specs.

First of all... the FJR has a hydraulic clutch so there is no cable to adjust. Secondly don't listen to any of these people telling you to tear into the case. The FJR has an adjustable clutch lever. Setting 5 is closest to the grip (less throw) setting 1 is furthest away (more throw). See where yours is set and adjust accordingly

Good news, you just need adjust the clutch cable..

Always order the part for your model and year when getting parts and make sure it matches in length with the old one. Note how much cable is sticking out of the housing.
Is it 3 1/2 inches or 4 inches or 2 inches. make sure the new one matches.

Put the new cable on with lots of slack.Slack at the adjuster, and slack at the handlebar adjuster
Now pull the lever in, it will be easy because of the slack.let it stay there.
It will stay against the grip.
As you tighten the cable adjustment down by the cover, you'll notice the clutch lever move out.
Once it reaches the top, stop adjusting and pull it in again.
Continue adjusting and pulling the lever until the lever springs back to the top.
You can feel resistence which is the clutches disengaging.
Make sure there is 1/8" free play when the lever springs back.
Now turn the clutch cable adjust on the handlebar outward, which will remove the rest of the slack.
Only leave 2mm slack on the lever.

Now start your bike up and it should work like new.
You want your clutch to disengage within the first 1/2" of pulling the lever in.
This ensures the clutches are definately disengaged by the time you get the lever pulled back to the grip when shifting.

If your clutches are slipping or dragging no matter how you adjust the cable then your clutches may need replaced.
But sounds to me like its just an adjustment.
Hope to be helpful
Big Al

you may have sticking clutch plates or the clutch drum may have notches worn in it and not letting the clutch plates slide as they should

Sure you can fix it yourself. First lets make sure the cable is broke. When you pull in the clutch does the other end of the cable move?
If not then disconnect the cable from the lever and pull on the end by hand. Did you just pull a broken cable out of the sleeve?
If so then purchase a new cable and replce the broken one paying particular attention to the way it is routed. place the adjuster on the lever end a tad less than half way. Adjust the clutch end of the cable to take up the slack. Work the lever 3 times ( to seat everything) and use the adjuster at the lever for final adjustment. You want about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play at the end of the lever befor the cable starts to actuate the clutch arm. Adjust and lock.

Pulling the lever releases the clutch. Disengageing it so you don't go. Ok, in order to engage the clutch fully, you release the lever and you must have at leas 1/4 inch free play.
If it is not going in gear easily, you probably have too much free play and you are not fully disengageing.. There is the possibility of an internal adjust ment Try the above and let me know how or if that works. Clutch lever pulled by closing your fist releases the clutch for shifting.

1) Can you push the bike while it's in gear with the clutch pulled in? [If so, clutch is disengaging OK]

2) If not, check when you pull in the clutch lever that it pulls all the way through to the actual clutch [If not, replace broken clutch cable]

3) If so, clutch is binding. Either fix it properly by stripping the clutch.. or just brute-force the plates apart. :-)

Brute-force clutch plate separation: First make sure you have enough oil in the engine (wet clutch), then basically you're looking at either riding it with the clutch lever pulled in until the plates come apart or with the rear wheel in the air CAREFULLY running it in first gear against the rear brake while the clutch is pulled in.

Bowden cables like your clutch cable work on the law of the lever. Think of lifting up a heavy weight hanging on a rope using a lever balanced on a fulcrum. The rope is in tension and the fulcrum is in compression. To adjust the point of lift you could either vary the length of the rope or adjust the height of the fulcrum. The outer sleeve of your clutch cable is made out of plastic-coated steel, square-section wire and is resistant to compression forces along its length. This outer sleeve works as your fulcrum and, because it is flexible, lets you put it where it is needed - at the end of your handlebar. The cable inner is like the rope in the lever example and resists only stretching forces. It is threaded down through that snaking fulcrum back to where control movement is needed. The cable adjusters let you fine tune the length of the fulcrum, and therefore the lift range of the inner cable.,,,

Bowden cables like your clutch cable work on the law of the lever. Think of lifting up a heavy weight hanging on a rope using a lever balanced on a fulcrum. The rope is in tension and the fulcrum is in compression. To adjust the point of lift you could either vary the length of the rope or adjust the height of the fulcrum. The outer sleeve of your clutch cable is made out of plastic-coated steel, square-section wire and is resistant to compression forces along its length. This outer sleeve works as your fulcrum and, because it is flexible, lets you put it where it is needed - at the end of your handlebar. The cable inner is like the rope in the lever example and resists only stretching forces. It is threaded down through that snaking fulcrum back to where control movement is needed. The cable adjusters let you fine tune the length of the fulcrum, and therefore the lift range of the inner cable.,,,

the only clutch action I was getting was /is in the last 25% of the lever throw. I brought it home and let it cool and tried bleeding the clutch. Didn't seem to help. I have no idea what tranny oil is in it. Figured I'd just tear it apart and check things out with the plates and such. Anyone got any tips or links on what I should be looking for? If you haven't figured it out yet...I'm very new at this but I enjoy doin my own wrenching so any help will be very much appreciated.Look closely at the master cylinder and lever. When you pull the lever does it almost instantly start pushing the mc piston? Is there too much clearance between the lever and mc piston? Is the adjuster screw missing from the lever? There is also a push-pin between the adjuster screw and mc piston the dust-boot holds it in place. Is it installed? If the adjuster comes loose that pin can fall out.,,