I need to know the fork oil capacity for a Kawasaki GPZ750

310ml all the best.

Let someone else chime in but on my '83 magna it 13 oz

the bikes have changed a lot since then.. 4.8 oz sounds very low

You need prop the bike up on front and rear stands. The fron stand needs to be the type that holds the bike up by the headtube. Remove brake calipers, front wheel, fender. Then loosen the upper and lower triple clamps. Loosen the clip ons. But before loosening the lower triple, loosen the fork tube top caps.

Drop out the legs. take off the top caps, pour out the oild, and compress the spring. I'd use a fork compressor, race tech makes a nice one. Loosen the top cap from the damping rod. Remove the top cap then pump out the rest of the oil from the damper.

Next, remove the outer dust seal. Remove circlip. Then you need to just extend the fork several times quickly to "bang" out the oil seal and bushings.

The outer bushings, if they look good, need to be gently pryed off using a thin flat head screw driver in the **** of the bushing. Same with the inner bushing. Now the oil seal, metal washer and circlip all come out together. Remember the order.

Lube up the new seals with fresh oil. put back on the fork lowers in the same order they were taken off. Replace bushings at the same time if there's any brass showing. I usually do it any way since the seals seem to go at the same rate as the bushings for me.

Once back together, seat the seals. There's a tool for this, but I usually **** the old oil seal so I can get it on the lower fork tube between the new oil seal and new dust seal. and I quickly compress (bang) the fork a few times until the groove on the upper leg is showing so the circlip will lock back on. Probably not recommended but I haven't ruined a dust seal in about 20 years now.

Fill fork with proper oil viscosity and volume (don't remember how much or weight for zx7s). cycle the damper about 20 times to make sure they're full of oil too. insert spring, re-compress, lock on top cap to damping rod. screw on top cap. reassemble fork on bike. Remember to torque the top cap with the top triple clamp loose otherwise the caps can bind.

SILKOLENE PRO RSF 5WT or use
SILKOLENE FORK OIL LIGHT
500-MLS OIL EACH LEG

fork oil type -fork oil#10, oil capacity each leg 388 ml for E-01,28 33 models and 392 ml for the other models standard oil level 142mm for E-01,03,28,33 138mm for the other models

you will need one quart or one liter of synthetic high performance suspension fluid [fork oil]. go to any autozone store and they will sell u what u need.

Angela, do you have a Clymer, Hayne, or service manual for the bike? If not you should get one, there is a lot of valuable information in there even if you don't do all the work yourself.

Replacing the fork seal requires putting the front end in the air, disconnecting everything from the front wheel (brake lines, speedometer cable if there is one), and dropping the wheel and fork tubes CAREFULLY to separate the two pieces of the fork tubes. Then grab the old seal and replace it with the new seal.

This short description is a VERY abbreviated and simplified version. It's not hard once you have done it a couple times but be very careful not to bend anything in your forks. They have springs inside them too. Change the oil while you are in there. Usually 10 or 15 weight fork oil but look in your manual. If you can't find a manual post again with your bike's year and we will see what we can come up with.

My book says "Capacity 368.5-373.5 cc dry. This is for a 1996 Vulcan 1500 A10. Should be the same.

Get the fork oil from the Kawasaki dealer and he will give you the right oil and tell you how much is needed. The gearbox oil is 10w40, any major brand is fine. I think your bike has a oil dipstick? If not then the oil capacity should be on the casing by the oil fill. Worst case, ask the dealer while you are there!
Best wishes and I hope this helps.

Please rate this solution. Thanks Robert!

fork oil capacity is 578 to 586cc