Maybe fuel is too lean
Testimonial: "I do not expect it to fuel that works well for a problem does not occur until after the high heat"
a lean fuel mix can cause overheating,and difficulty restarting when hot
You mean re-calibrate the carburetor
just rich the mixture a bit
If What is the proper way to adjust the mixture
counter clockwise 1/8 turn on carb jet to begin with, see how it runs, and accelerates, and if over heating continues
These nails do not have a fixed number of laps from Kawasaki
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SOURCE: my zx10b keeps stopping after riding a few miles
Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Any water in the gas? Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carbs to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plugs and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetors from the engine.
FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
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SOURCE: Cannot start not using the choke and rpm flattens at 4000 rpm
The air screw and the idle screw turn inward until they LIGHTLY seat, then back out one and one half turns. For the dead spot, pull the slide out of the carb and move the clip on the jet needle down one notch. Two notches if needed.
The pilot jet covers the idle function. It sounds like this is not the problem though. The high idle indicates a lean fuel mix. An air leak is leaning the mix. It could be bad intake manifold gaskets, carb and manifold not down tight, loose spark plug, cylinder head not tight, bad head gasket.
If you do want to adjust the pilot jet the, often it is adjustable from the outside of the carb. It is normally located just out side and next to the main jet. It will be brass and have a slot for a small screw driver. If no outside screw, then an inside adjustment screw means removing the float bowl. Turn the jet screw outward 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
SOURCE: 1992 kawasaki Vulcan 750 stops running
Check the intake manifold/s, even a small leak will make it run poor. Being stored for five years then putting it into use, you may have a blocked main jet. Sea-foam is a great product and I would have used that product to store the bike but not to get it running. It is slow acting so it doesnt work like carb cleaner.
SOURCE: I have a 2008 KX450F.
There is no reason for the idle to take 10-15 seconds to slow to normal. perhaps you have a vacume leak. check all your seal and gaskets between the engine and the carb.also when it is running spray gummout spray or equivilent around the gasket edges between the engine and the carb, if the idle increases when you spray then you have a vacume leak. (intake leak). It may be that this is causing it to be hard to start when it is hot.(not getting enough fuel)
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Check the reeds and reed gaskets at the top of the valve cover also...i had issues of it idleing and starting once it was warm... 1) clean the carbs and set the idle mixture screw to spec and turn in as needed...my idle/air screw is 1 3/4 turns out. but thats my bike....but as i was saying i had the middle of my gaskets ripped out on the reeds and the one reed had the middle of the gasket lodged in the reed valve, which created complete loss of power as i was driving and didnt want to start until cooled. and the reeds were all gunked up bad, which will also give poor performace and idle issues and starting hard. and if your reeds have any cracks, chips, or damaged in any way replace them. hope i helped. i know cleaning the reeds and everything helped me.
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