The front supension on my bike barley moves really stiff but yet bike is in a good condition

Fork adjustment varies from bike to bike. Some have no adjustment at all, some have screws that you turn in and out, some are adjusted/aided by air. Some people change the weight (viscosity) of the fork oil, fit firmer or looser springs etc. Fork adjustment and settings depend on the riders size, handling and bike style so there really is no "stock setting, one size fits all".
What you consider way stiff may be ideal for me but too soft for someone else.
The best way to find out how to adjust the settings (if it is possible) is find a forum online relating to your bike as adjustments of this sort is a fairly hot topic of discussion.
I hope that is of some help.

getting too much air into exhaust

Check the ball joints and the belt tension.

take a riding course... the instructor will tell you to push the handle bar to the opposite side you are turning when running about 30mph and you really dont turn the handle bar when turning at a high speed. in low speed, handle bars should not be very stiff. maybe check tire pressure.

If your bike responds normally while riding upon the road and if during front braking the springs directly behind the headlight "extend" and "relax" in a "normal" fashion then you aren't experiencing any difficulties/problems. Springer front ends should only be adjusted or serviced by very qualified personnel as the spring pressures exerted by a springer assembly can seriously injure untrained persons.

One thing you could try is a "fork brace" or what some people call a "tweek bar" that ties the two sliders together. This reduces the amount of flex in the front forks. We used to run them on our dirt bikes years ago. They do help stabilize the front end.

Also drop your front tire pressure to 30 psi and look for any unusual wear patterns on you tires such as cupping. Take the wheel off and have it spin balanced as well. You can also change the fork oil in your forks. I run PJ1 30 weight in my Wide Glide. It's a bit on the stiff side but it sure helped the handling as the bike no longer bounces and dives in the turns. I also got away from the Dunlop tires. I now run Metezler 880's and they seem to handle the turns better but I think the Dunlops had better braking characteristics.

Good Luck
Steve

sounds like the bearing's in the triple clamp area are ether warn out or is over tighten a quick test " stand over the bike like you would be like your at a stop light,place both feet on the ground and grab the handle bars with both hands and lift like your trying to lift the front of the bike up to see if you feel any play "YOU DON'T HAVE TO LIFT THE BIKE YOU COULD REALLY HURT YOU BACK". if you do feel play you will want to take the bike in to have this replaced.

riding the bike is aa good start as it will show up in handling of the bike if there is no obvious visible distortion also fork oil leaks and stiffness in the forks the best way would be to get an alignment check

I've never heard of this being a problem, especially if the bike isn't total junk. Keep us posted on what you find, will you? I'm guessing it's gunk in the carb body itself, not something on the outside, but I'd like to hear where the problem truly lies. If things are that stiff with the throttle, I'd probably double check to make sure the slides move freely...stuff like that. I'd probably do a good carb cleaning anyhow if it were me. If you're reluctant to do that, at least plan on using some Seafoam for a while to help make sure your passages in the carbs are clear. The bowls being clean is definitely a good thing, but you still need to be concerned about your floats, float needles, and slides being sticky even if everything looks good. Doesn't take much gas to make things gummy. Just remember that if you aren't familiar with cleaning carbs, carb cleaner and rubber parts DON'T mix well. You need to be sure to follow your manual closely if you do decide to clean your carbs. If you have questions about this, post them before you start...it can really save you headaches later on. One thing to keep in mind when it comes to older cables is that they sometimes can seem like they're okay when off the bike, you can check them and they'll seem like they move alright, but as soon as you get them put on the bike with the bends everything, they'll bind enough to cause a stiff throttle. Just thought I'd mention that in case things still seem stiff even after you take care of the carb work.

Hi
I had the same problem. It cast me lot money in changing few things but finally found. The side where the noise comes from look fro the supension arm it is connecting the main suspensionto the body. You have to change that or find silicon oil and spray around the bushes of the arm.

good luck