Can it be removed while engine is in frame
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SOURCE: how to assemble oil pump 1995 Heritage
Assembling an oil pump is not that difficult provided you do a few things to insure that it works correctly. Now, you didn't tell me if the engine was in the frame or out. The difference is that the oil pump drive shaft will already be in the engine and the assembly will be different than if the shaft is out of the engine.
The first thing is that you want to make sure the oil seal is in the pump body and that it's installed in the correct direction. The lip of the seal must face the feed side of the pump. If you look at the gears and the pump body, you'll see that two gears are "thicker" than the other two. Also, the area that these gears go into are the same, one side it deeper than the other in the pump body. The "thin" gears are the feed gears that pump oil into the engine and the "thick" gears are the scavenge gears that pump the oil out of the engine. Once you get the seal installed correctly. You can start putting the gears and drive keys in.
Start by pulling the drive shaft out the back side to the engine as far as possible and installing the inner oil pump gasket. "Stick" the gasket to the engine case with a thin coating of grease. Slide the driven scavenge gear on the shaft with the drive key installed in the keyway of the shaft. The driven gear is the gear with the keyway cut in it. Lubricate the drive shaft and slide the pump body up to the gears making sure you don't go too far and knock the key out of the shaft.
Now put the drive key for the feed side of the pump in the keyway of the shaft and install the feed side driven gear. Make sure the key does not come out of the keyway. Once you get this installed, put the idle feed gear in the pump body. Then install the snap ring on the pump end of the shaft.
Now, carefully slide the pump towards the engine while holding the oil pump drive gear in place in the cam chest. Slide the pump body up to the engine and loosely install the two short bolts in the pump body holding it to the engine. Turn the pump drive shaft and the drive gear so that the keyways are aligned and use a pair of needle nose pliers to insert the key. Then install the snap ring on that end of the shaft.
Then, "stick" the outer oil pump gasket on the outer face of the oil pump body and install the outer cover of the oil pump. Install the four bolts and snug them up to the cover. Now you are ready to tighten the bolts. You should have the pinion gear and oil pump drive gear removed from the pinion gear of the pinion shaft of the flywheel. This will allow you to turn the oil pump while you torque the bolts.
The oil pump bolts torque to 90-110 INCH pounds. Torque the bolts in a criss cross pattern while turning the drive gear in the cam chest with your fingers. If the pump tightens up at any point, you must loosen and reposition the pump slightly and start tightening the pump again. The goal is to get the pump to final torque and still be able to turn the pump freely. Freely is the key word here. Not herky-jerky turning or having to force the gear to turn.
Good Luck
SOURCE: how to remove starter 1995 heritage softail
To remove the starter on you Softail, first disconnect the negative side of the battery.
Then drain the primary and remove any footboards, shifters, ect. so that you can get the outer primary cover off. Once the cover is off, remove the small bolt that holds the starter jackshaft on and remove the jackshaft. The jackshaft coupling may come out with the jackshaft. Mark which way the coupling goes back in as there is a snap ring on the inside that is not in the center.
Now, go to the right side of the bike and remove the exhaust system, and remove the bolts that hold the oil in. Do not take the tank out but you need to be able to lift the tank just a bit. Remove the battery cable from the starter using a 12mm wrench. There are two large bolts that hold the starter into the inner primary, remove these two bolts and unplug the small wire at the top of the solenoid and the starter will come out.
Good Luck
Steve
SOURCE: How is the inner primary
First, disconnect the battery and take it out of the bike. Then drain and remove the outer primary cover. Once you have that off, you'll have to remove the large nut that holds the compensator sprocket on and take the clutch assembly off. The engine sprocket nut is very tight at 150-165 foot pounds of torque. You'll probably need an air wrench or some way to lock the primary chain so the engine doee not turn while trying to loosen it. To get the clutch assembly off, remove the snap ring and take the clutch adjuster out of the center of the clutch assembly. The mainshaft nut that holds it on is in the hole in the center of the clutch assembly. The nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster shoe and take the engine sprocket and clutch assembly off all together. Remove the starter jackshaft. Then, on the other side of the bike, you'll probably have to remove at least some of the exhaust system so you can get the starter off. Take the battery cable off the starter and remove the two large socket head bolts to take the starter off. You will have to take the bolts out of the oil tank so that you can raise it just a bit but you shouldn't have to take it off. There is a coupling that the jackshaft fits into on the end of the starter. Mark which way the coupling faces or remember that the counterbored end goes towards the jackshaft. Go back to the left side of the bike and take the four bolts at the engine out and the nuts back at the transmission off. The inner primary should come off at this point.
Good Luck
Steve
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