New brake pads are dragging; how do I remove the caliper to examine?
SOURCE: how do I install the
I'm not really sure what you're talking about when you say "pad seperator". There are two stainless steel "slides" that go on the caliper bracket to protect it from wear from the ears on the pads and there's a funny little spring that keeps the pads from rattling. This is one of the areas where a picture is worth a thousand words. Try this site and see if it helps.
http://www.bikebandit.com/1993-harley-davidson-flstf/o/m1215#sch147081
Good Luck
Steve
Testimonial: "Thanks, the picture is what I was looking for. It helped me out a lot."
SOURCE: I replaced the front brake
The bolts that you tightened has nothing to do with the rattle. In reality, the caliper slides along these bolts as the pads wear. Usually, the pads hold enough pressure against the rotor even when the brakes are not applied to prevent rattling. The rear pad is held in place by a plate with a bolt that screws into the rear pad. The pad on the outside has a flat spring that holds it into the cavity in the piston to prevent it from rattling. The caliper has o-rings inside the bores where the bolts go through to keep it tight on the two bolts you put in. Grab the caliper and try to shake it. If you can shake it, these o-rings are most likely gone. Refer to this drawing to see what I'm talking about.
http://www.bikebandit.com/1999-harley-davidson-flstf/o/m1220#sch154862
Good Luck
Steve
Front Brake Caliper: All But FLSTS/FXSTS
Remove the front master cylinder reservoir cap to be able to check the fluid level as the caliper pistons are pushed back into the caliper because the fluid level may rise more than the 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) from the top level and you may have to remove some excess fluid if it does so. THEN loosen but do not remove both pad pins with a 12 point one quarter inch socket. THEN remove both metric caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper from the front forks and brake disc and pry the pads back to force all four caliper pistons into their bores. THEN once the pistons have been retracted, remove the pad pins and the brake pads.
Although the front and rear brake calipers except FXSTD models, use the same exact brake pad set the FXSTD does not and the FXSTD rear pads have a vertical slot cut into the pads. Be sure NOT to substitute front and/or rear brake pads for the other on these bikes. On the right side of the vehicle the pad with the two tabs installs on the inboard side of the caliper and on the left side of the vehicle, the pad with the two tabs installs on the outboard side of the caliper.
THEN install new pads into the caliper noting that the curved portion of the pad faces to the rear of the bike, and loosely install the pad pins until you hear an audible click from them. THEN re-attach the caliper to front fork, place the caliper over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upwards, loosely install the long caliper mounting bolt into the top hole on the fork leg, install the short mounting bolt into the bottom hole on the fork le, tighten the bottom mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm) and final tighten the top mounting bolt also to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm) and final tighten the two pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm).
THEN and whenever new pads are installed, before moving the bike pump the brakes until brake fluid pushes the caliper pistons and the pads out and verify that the pads are against the brake disc and then rotate the wheel to ensure there is not any excessive drag between the pads and the disc, check for proper fluid level in the reservoir and if necessary top it up with DOT 5 Silicone base brake fluid only, install the reservoir cover and tighten its screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm).
THEN and whenever any work has been done on brakes always test the brakes at low speed before operating on a roadway or at higher speeds. THEN test brake system light and if during the road test the brakes feel spongy at all bleed the system and after obtaining a hard lever or pedal road test the bike again.
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