1987 Kawasaki GPX 750 R oil and filter change

SOURCE: service manual for gpx 400r kawasaki

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SOURCE: What level should the engine oil be at for a 1987 Kawasaki ZL1000

The oil level should be in the center of the window. Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.

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SOURCE: kawasaki kx250f seems to be overheating sat idle

from past expierence with these little gems blown head gaskets dont usualy show with water in the oil rather the other way around thats right if the head gasket is blown your more likely to notice a discolouration in the coolant also the spark plug will foul wich is why it will not idle .regarding the over heating I'm assumeing you have bought this machine second hand If that is the case do you know how long it has been since it had a full service from the way you describe the oil Im guessing its been a while so before you go pulling any thing apart drop the oil replace the oil filter flush the cooling system at this point while the system is dry I would remove strip & clean the coolant pump sory did I mention that the coolant drain plug is located at the bottom of the pump I have encounterd torn seals in these pumps before checking these things may save you the headache of pulling the head of.

SOURCE: 1987 GPX (ninja) 750R. It has tons of get up and

hi,this might help,you will have to remove the carbs to do it,but check the float levels in the carbs,it sounds like it is not getting enough fuel when the load goes on,the engine is using more fuel  under load and the carbs  cant keep up,while you have them apart give them a good clean out,make sure all the jets are nice and clean,also have a look at the air filter ,a blocked or dirty air filter will also affect top end or"under load"performance,before i forget,when you had the fuel tap apart did you make sure that the gauze filters on the petcock were nice and clean,if they are just slightly dirty they will also affect performance.if the bike has a vacuum pump on the fuel tap,check that the vacuum line from the pump to the pickup point(normally the intake manifold or a point on the vacuum side of the carbs,ie engine side)is in good condition with no kinks or cracks,if it has a kink in the line it will not create enough vacuum to run the pump,causing poor fuel flow  under load,i have just done a repair on an 89 gsxr 750 slingshot that the owner has spent a fortune on trying to get it right,and it turned out to be a $4.00 kinked vacuum line to the fuel pump...hope this helps...cheers

SOURCE: Hi! I bought a Kawasaki

No, their would be no reason to change the piston and rings first up, unless you know that they are worn from the previous owner, Get the bike up and running first and go from their, will be a good chance the piston and rings will be fine.

Change the oil first up as their is a good chance condensation has occurred and put water in to the oil. Drain the fuel from both the tank and carburettor, as this would have gone stale. Change battery or jump start if required.

suspect. With the spark plugs out, crank the engine over a few times. (ensure oil level correct) If it winds over all good, put a few drops off oil in the cylinders. This will help build compression. Re-fit spark plugs, Full choke and give it a shot. Away it should go! Aerostart or ether may come in handy.

Goodluck!

Testimonial: "Thanks! the bike runs kind of fine. It only had a few problems that i`m working on :)"