20 Most Recent 2003 Yamaha YZ 125 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The only filter in the fuel system is a fine mesh screen in the gas tank - on the end of the pickup tube. Pull the petc0ck and you will see it.Hope this helped.

Service manual says oil capacity is 19.4 oz. per leg which is 573.726 ml per leg. Be sure that you have drained all the old fork oil out first.

hi there it sounds like the return spring is broken inside the cases this useally a sidecover off to replace it hopes this helps

it should be just a bolt that goes through the base of kickstarter then wedge a screw driver into the slot to widen it and it should come off .but if you want to remove the shaft and all you will need to split the cases hope this helps

1). Confirm that the transmission is really in nuetral, or insure that the clutch is pulled in. 2). Have you tried removing the spark plug to insure that you do not have a hydraulic lock due to excess fuel in the cylinder? With spark plug removed, any excess fuel should be expelled out the open spark plug hole. CAUTION: INSURE THAT THE SPARK PLUG LEAD IS DISCONNECTED, AND HELD AWAY FROM THE OPEN CYLINDER TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL IGNITION OF EXCESS FUEL.

Smaller pilot jet

How does the compression feel now that you have it cranking over again. Without the decompression lever pulled in it should be next to impossible to kick it over. also, is there any noise coming from the engine (knocking, etc.) when you got it to start again.

it will be the coil buddy what you can do is try the coil off the lawnmower on the bike but just to test it as you will lose performance if kept on there

It would appear that the float is not shutting off fuel flow when the bowl is full--take off the bowl, remove the float and needle valve. Turn on the fuel for a moment to wash out the needle seat, clean the needle tip and reinstall the parts you took off. If the float is brass, shake it to listen for fuel inside the float. If there is, replace it. Plastic floats don't have this problem. Hope this helps!

this happened with my sons pw50 where the piston ring had snapped and when it locked it was stuck bewteen the piston & bore i would seek a shop or mechaninc to look at the top end and isnpect the piston & rings for wear or damage dont keep kicking as this could result in further damage

globe blown ?

sounds to me as if your carb is all gunked up pull it off and clean it then see what happens

Sounds like a selector rod has bent in the gearbox and the damage has got progressively worse by damaging the teeth on various gears. Drain the gearbox oil into a suitable container and look for any signs of metal particles or broken gear teeth. Firstly if you are not mechanically minded or don't have a repair manual and suitable tools then this is a job for the bike shop. This can be a very expensive repair. It can be more economical to fit a known good secondhand replacement engine, best o luck.

2001

Does this happen when the bike is cold or hot? When a bike is cold and turned off, the oil in the gearbox 'sucks' the clutch plates together even when you disengage the lever. When an engine is warm and running the oil thins out, letting the clutch engage and disengage. Change your gearbox oil regularly to stop any sludge building up. Hope this helps..

Kinda sounds like your needle valve is sticking in your carb and it is giving it to much fuel

Change the oil inside check with your mechanic and choose a thicker oil.

check the timing marks are in line.

As long as it is case oil and not an automotive oil for a car Because your dirt bike uses a wet clutch and some oills wil clog Up the friction plates

depending on the machine it is, this could be the AIR/FUEL screw it too lean.Often it is the AP (accelerator pump) on the carb. This has diaphragm and a pin. If this gets dirt in it it can cause erratic very fast idle, once revved or "bliped". Simply remove carb. On the bottom is the bowl, and another cover. Remove the bowl and this other cover and delicately cleam both. If diaphragm is dirty chances are bowl full of gunk too.