20 Most Recent 2001 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Questions & Answers

How much free play on the clutch cable or is it hydraulic? You must have some free play, if you do not this could be the cause off slipping in 5th gear. Also if all the plates look good , not flaked or burnt, the proper thickness, then you need to check the clutch pack clearance: this is .010 per plate set (one friction/steel). some clutches need to be shimmed to reduce the clearance. Then you can sand/ up the steel plated with 60 - 100 grit sand paper on both sides and put in new springs or a stronger aftermarket spring set. I hope this helps. As for the noise I would ask a dealer as I am not to sure about that. Thanks Rod

Rear or front? If its the rear... that shock failing (leaking) is not unusual for most. Bob If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_beef7390c57fac0d

igniton wires connected wrong ?

There's quite a few rubber boots in that area, and I'm not sure which one you're talking about. You can find them here, though: http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2001-yamaha-royal-star-venture-xvz13tfn-intake/o/m145810sch128157

repair it

too much air thru air box, adjust fuel/ air in-put to engine...one of the carbies could be stickin too, use c form to clean carb's & fuel treatment

If you look along the riders right side of the crankcase, under the water pump with the chrome elbow...you'll see a round window with 2 marks beside it.
Warm up the engine, **** down and let the oil drain back for a couple of minutes, then either place a block under the sidestand to get the bike upright...or have an assistant raise bike from sidestand and observe oil level...about 1/2 full is best.

Go to http://www.venturers.org/ This is a wonderful site dedicated to the Venture rider. I would recommend joining the club site and enjoy the extensive knowledge of all the riders. This site gives diagrahms of a lot of the maintenance of the Venture. I would recommend this to anyone that wants to learn more than the average rider.

Go to http://www.venturers.org/. This site is dedicated to the Venture. All information you need is here with exploded diagrahms of the areas you need to work on. I have just removed mine and it was a B****. Used a dremel tool to cut a groove and an impact hammer to remove the screws. The site tells you all you need to know to remove it. You need to join this site as it is the only one on the interned that can really help the Venture rider.

This is a surprisingly simple job, even easier if you have a lift - I've done it to an early Venture (not mine) on the side of Rt. 84 in Abiquiu, N.M. with a scissors jack, a telephone book and two lengths of rope (and a rather extensive set of tools I carry when I travel). It saved the expense of transporting the bike 50 miles (to Santa Fe) to have the rear tire replaced. But I digress...

Remove the saddlebag on the right (throttle or rear brake pedal) side of the bike.I recommend doing it now because the bike is more stable on the sidestand; you will have to exercise considerable caution once it's on a lift, or the rear tire is otherwise elevated. There are two different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame) but KEEP TRACK of where the parts come from, and in what order you remove them. (You're gonna hear this a lot, but replacing a part lost or misplaced prior to reassembly, or having to dismantle and reassemble the bike because things don't fit right is a LOT more aggravating).

The rear caliper and brake disk are now exposed (if not, repeat the previous instructions on the OTHER side of the bike - @$#&%*!, and READ the instructions, willya!) (Sorry, couldn't pass up the opportunity...). Remove the two hex head bolts holding the caliper to the caliper arm, lift the caliper off the disk, and gently lay outside the arm. If you've already changed the hoses to the stainless-steel reinforced type, you needn't be too careful; if you're using the hoses the bike came with, take exceptional care not to nick or cut the hose. Examine the axle on that side of the bike, CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY noting the location of spacers and washers; when it's reassembled, you'll have to duplicate what you're looking at right now.

Prior to lifting the bike, loosen (but do not remove) the self-locking nut on the opposite side of the wheel (on the outside of the final drive unit) and the pinch nut at the end of the swingarm on the caliper side. Now, lift the bike, making sure the rear wheel is suspended and unobstructed to both the right and rear. Remove the nut from the side of the final drive and extract the axle shaft. It doesn't want to move? You're left with two choices - grasp the end of the axle shaft outside the swingarm with a pair of Channelocks or some other toothed, clamping device, and twist until it loosens and comes out - OR - remove the other saddlebag and use a 3/8 extension or extensions to tap the axleshaft through. I do not recommend the Channelocks - the scoring of the axleshaft is permanent and UGLY; if you think it looks bad after the shaft is out, wait until the RUST sets in...

With the axleshaft out, the wheel is probably hanging askew between the swingarm and the final drive unit, and there's an assortment of spacers and washers lying on the ground (you DO remember where they were a minute ago, don't you?). Place the loose bits out of harms' way, GENTLY move the wheel toward the swingarm, and -SHAZAM!- it should drop to the ground, and roll out beneath the fender. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET DEBRIS GET ONTO THE EXPOSED DRIVE SPLINE ON THE FINAL DRIVE, THE MATING SPLINES IN THE WHEEL, OR INTO THE BEARINGS. Those areas are really, really, really difficult to adequately clean after they've been contaminated.

Reassemble in the reverse order, torque specifications for the axle nut - 110 ft.-lbs. (150 nm), for the pinch nut on the swing arm - 17 ft.-lbs (23 nm). Bolts for the caliper should be torqued to 30 ft.-lbs. (40 nm).

It's a good idea to lubricate the drive splines in the rear wheel and the mating shaft in the final drive while the rear wheel is out.

The shock absorber assembly is a unit with no serviceable parts - you can try tightening the valve in the valve stem, but your only further option is to replace the entire assembly.

Make sure you have an adequate supply of DOT 4 brake fluid. A quart should be enough, but much less is gonna leave you without brakes somewhere until you can get more. You CAN NOT refill with DOT 5 fluid; flushing the lines with alcohol, drying and purging is required before that change - and the benefits are negligible.

Remove the saddlebag on the right side of the bike. Sound simple? NOT! There are two different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame) but KEEP TRACK of where they come from, and in what order you remove them.

The rear caliper is now exposed - the real fun begins. Two bolts hold the caliper to the caliper arm - remove them and lay the caliper on the arm. Remove the black plastic dust cover on the top of the caliper (it's frequently missing, the ears that snap into slots in the caliper get brittle, and it breaks off and disappears), but DON'T try to remove the spring beneath. Lay the caliper on its side, pads toward you. Collapse the pistons (if you don't know how to do that, shame on you. Get a stack of pennies and a large screwdriver, stack pennies IN THE CENTER of one pad until there is very little clearance between the two pads with the screwdriver inserted between the pennies and the bare pad. Twist screwdriver HARD, relax. Keep adding pennies and twisting until neither pad will move any more).

It's time now for final disassembly. Flip the caliper over; you'll see two pins secured by spring clips. Those pins also secure the spring; note the orientation of the spring through the pins, take pictures or draw the assembly; whatever you do, make sure the springs and pins are reinstalled in EXACTLY the same orientation. Remove spring clips, remove pins and springs, and the pads can be removed one at a time by sliding to the center of the caliper. Insert new pads, reinstall pins, spring and spring clips, remount caliper, reinstall dust cap and bleed brakes. Wrestle the saddle bag back into place. You can now reassure yourself (and any observers/kibitzers) that the worst caliper of the three is out of the way.

Proceed to the front, and pick a caliper. You'll see two (usually black) bolts holding the caliper to the front fork, remove them and swing the caliper free of the disk. The caliper itself closely resembles the one in the back with two notable exceptions - in addition to the spring on top of the pads, there are two retainers on the front and rear of the pads (they keep debris from getting between the pads and disk, and keep the pads from moving back and forth in the caliper housing), and on the back of the outside pad is a shim (don't ask me why, but it's usually there). Disassembly and reassembly are similar to the rear caliper BUT; remember to transfer the outside shim to the new pad, and, once the pistons are collapsed, remove the retainers from the front and rear of the old pads, then reinstall in the new pads prior to installing the pins and spring above the pads. After you've finished both calipers, bleed one caliper at a time.

Check the firmness of the brakes once more just for safetys' sake, and it's Miller time!