20 Most Recent 2008 Triumph America Questions & Answers

Hey MArk, Reinstall your starter...when trying to start your bike, voltage means almost nothing! - The "quality" of a battery is determined by the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps).. amperage is what makes your bike start...and you need at least 13.5 volts to run the lights, etc.. O'Reilly's, AutoZone, etc.. can test your battery.. ..When you get a new battery...you need to check the charging system.. crank it up..let it get warm..then put a multimeter to it..Red to + terminal and black to - terminal ...you should get 13.5+ volts DC to the battery at 3500 rpm..

Hey Stefaan, Take it back, allow them to fix it... talk to the service manager and let him know whats going on...be nice... at first...

Check connectors first, because the lights on a bike all tend to feed off the same fuse. At this time of year water can get into the connectors un the underseat area and around the back end. A good liberal spraying of WD40 is recommended at this time of year. The symptoms you describe show a deteriorating problem, so the most likely cause is a bad connection or water ingress. good luck and keep rubber side down.

I don't think it's an electrical ark: it it would be one the current needed to create a spark so loud that you can hear over the sound of the engine with a helmet on would be so great that not only all the fuses would have been blown but the voltage in the electrical system would drop so low that the engine will surely cut out. And if it would have occurred once the second time would have been the last one - a short that big would have melted and welded the cables
Much more likely is that it's a noise made by a bushing, somewhere in the general location of the sound. start by shaking the head lamp and the bad and look for loose rubber or electrical hoses. Then have the head tube and its bearings inspected, check the triple clamps and inspect the shocks. Finally check the mounting supports for motor and the exhaust tubes - they might expand from the heat and rub on the bolts.

It is a hydraulic in line pressure switch that seem to go bad often on the triumph. Check the assembly on end of the of the rod that runs from the rear of the rear brake pedal up into the rear brake cylinder. If the nut has worked its way down, then the pressure could be constant enough to make the contact stay on.
Turn the lights on and work the break pedal up and down with your hand to see if it goes off. If it does not, take the pedal off and see if an adjustment to rod assembly makes the brake light go off.

Good luck, i hope this helps.

Your carb float is sticking, which will allow fuel to keep filling the bowl, even though it's full, thus the excess fuel will overflow into the air filter. You can try to "tap" the side of the carb with a soft hammer or wood to free itup, if that doesn't help, they need to be taken apart to free up and clean out the float needle, and jets. (Pilot and main jets per each carb)

Take some petroleum jelly and run it on all the wire connectors. That will waterproof them for a LONG time at low cost.

The side stand kill switch may be out of position, Starter button wire has come disconnected somewhere along the way? Is there power from the button to the solenoid when the button is pressed. If so, get a new solenoid. If not, trace the wire back to the button and find where it has come disconnected.

Sounds like it is time for a new battery.... Have u tried charging that baby? Let me know....Sincerely HDTV GURU JAY

Absolutely no problem. Even your battery is better now, because it has better Ah and of course longer stamina. Just enjoy your new great battery.
Regards, vote please, Jay.

check battery leads are tight

there is an easy way to do this,,,take off the throttle bodies,,,
place a lenth of thin strate whire into both throttel bodies and gentely close the throttles on this whire,,, the butter flys should just tuch very gentely both bits of whire if not adjust the butter flyes till both bits of whire fall out under there own weight,,,and then its bingo,,, job done!!!
you will still need to balance the air intake on the trottel bodies
so set the tick over up right,,, then holding the reves at say 2000rpm set the air intake bypass air up on the throttel bodies,,,recheck that at tick over again,,,,, i hope you under stand what iv told you to do,,it works ok,
good luck,, was this any help to you?

1/ How's the brake pads? High or low?
2/ How's brake pedal? In good shape and condition?
3/ How's brake switch conditions? Good?
4/ Sounds like there is air bubbles in brake system, get a friend if you never done any purging/bleeding brake lines before hand..
Find a small size clear air hose fit tightly over brake nipple on the caliper, tie it tight with twist-ties, stuck other end into a catcher or clean clear container, use a size 8 sock wrench loosen brake nipple slightly, pump the brake pedal until it can not be pressed anymore, keeping it pressed down, using your other hand release the nipple nut so brake fluid can flow out and into container, automatically your pedal will goes down and fluid will stop flowing then close nipple and repeat process until all fluid are flowing clear of bubbles. If brake fluid reservoir is low, keep topping-up with fresh brake fluid until you see a clear brake fluid flows out from the brake nipple. Once that happens, tighten the nipple and you should be in orime state to ride again. Good enough?

Check that all nuts and bolts that fasten the front lower forks to the wheel axle are tight and in good shape. Also the front tire may have a shifted belt which is difficult to diagnose but can cause the symptom you are describing. If you ran over a pot hole or nasty bump the rim may be bent. While driving the bike try to look down at the front wheel to observe any warpage on the rim if the rim is bent bring it to a motorcycle repair shop they can tighten the spokes in a way that will straighten the rim.

It may be worth trying a new oil pressure sender switch, if it still comes on, fit a pressure gauge to the oil system(can use the switch hole)
although the oil is correct grade, perhaps try one grade thicker, if it really has low pressure its not a good ting

It could be as simple as the selecter arm that turns the drum , this will be visible with the clutch cover off( and maybe the clutch) this selector arm is on the other end of the gear lever shaft

The drum is the internal part that positions the selectors in the gbox, when you say there is no resistance would mean its not turning this drum. so its probably not an internal gear or selector fork problem

Take the rear seat off and then put the panniers over the mudguard. Replace the seat.

hello, lots of older triumps air filter were bolted on the back of carbs, i believe the newer ones is under the seat in a box, just about where the driver sets. also i would put new plugs in too, another thing is , run the mid grade gasoline,nothing that has methanol in it. the other gasoline that their making now is clogging up the jets in carbs, lots of people having problems with carbs that are stopped up because of what their putting in gas these days i was told buy a harley davidson mechanic to run the mid range gas in atvs, motorcycles, lawnmowers, car, so on.