20 Most Recent 2004 Suzuki DR 200 SE Questions & Answers

Start by making sure you have a fully charged battery. This sounds like. Stator issue. Check all terminals as well.
If you’ve found this helpful, please click the green “helpful” icon. If you have 20 seconds please leave a few words as a review or recommendation! Also, follow me for more answers to everyday issues, I’m all for saving you money and making the most of your time! Thanks and have a great day!

Resolution Below - Okay, I had the same problem...My 04 Suzuki DR200SE tail light /brake light is not working. Brake lights works in park mode not in ON with engine running or not. Tail light not in either mode.Volt meter shows the socket is working correctly, fuses are good. I even adjusted the pressure switch for the rear brake application. MOM shows nothing positive to help me trouble shoot and neither does the internet. Lots of people with same issue, but I'm not seeing any resolution. I'm posting the resolution as lots have had this issue, but no one has posted how they fixed it. It's the ground wire inside the tail section. Which is why the volt meter (which is grounded) shows the socket is good. You'll have the pull the tail section and note the ground wire has either broken off, or the wire has sucked up inside the insulation. You'll need to strip insulation, get to good wire and reattach it. I'd even solder it to keep it solid. Hope this helps someone else!!

If gasoline is getting into your oil, it is either because the carburetor is dirty/gummy and the float needle is sticking. The float needle could be worn and need replacement or the float could be sunk. Take the carburetor apart and clean it , inspect it and replace any worn parts. Your motorcycle also has a vacuum fuel petcock. Inspect the vacuum petcock. If the vacuum diaphragm is cracked or has a pin hole the fuel could be leaking past the vacuum diaphragm, into the manifold and from there into the crankcase (past the piston rings). In this case you will have to replace the fuel petcock assembly to get the new diaphragm ( around $95 ).

Loosen the bolt on the rear axle after removing the cotter pin holding the bolt in place. Adjust the chain tension by rotating the adjuster cams on the left and right side of the wheel. See diagram below. Set the two adjusters evenly to keep the wheel inline on the swingarm. Retighten the axle nut and put the cotter pin back in place. Have the parts department look at the rear sprocket. Chances are the sprocket is worn out also. If it is, the front sprocket will be worn out also. Worn out sprockets will cause your new chain to wear out quickly. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

hi, it sounds to me like the bike has been ridden hard and needs the chain replacing due to it strecthing. on the swing arm at the back is their two bolts sticking out the end of each swing arm their should be one in one side of the swing arm and one in the other side of the swing arm, this is right at the very back of the swing arm.
if you find these then these are the adjusters for the back wheel you then need to loosen the back wheel bolt but dont take it out then adjust these adjusters by the same amount do it in half a turn a time you need to do both the same else the back wheel wont be level keep tightening them in and this will then pull the wheel back and this will tighten the chain if its all ready adjusted fully then the chain is scrap and needs replacing, if you dont have adjusters then the chain needs replacing, it will keep coming off if its slack

you can cause damage to the bike if the chain comes off whilst riding at speed so it may be best to get the chain before you use the bike

A lot of guys will just find a firm surface (tree, pole) and beat the wheel against it to straighten the front wheel. Some will kick the wheel to straighten the front end. I would not suggest either method unless you are in the middle of a race.

The best way is to loosen the top triple clamp bolts (that grip the fork tubes) and then grip the tire with your knees (standing in front of the bike) and twist the bars, then re-tighten the top clamp bolts once you are happy with the alignment. It will move quite easily. Check the tighness of the steering stem nut after you are done.

If you need any additional details, don't hesistate to ask.

A good patch job (removing the tire and repairing with a patch on the inside of it) I feel is much better than a plug, IMHO I used to do allot of automotive tire repairs with patches and can't remember if any actually came apart or became defective. The plug may have a tendency to loosen and leak. On the other hand, allot of people would replace the tire just to have peace of mind with regards to motorcycle tires. 1500 miles is close enough to justify replacement.

Check for power and ground to the starter if the is then the coil is bad. If there isn't power you need a new stator

YOU DO NOT MENTION WHAT THE BIKE IS?? try this, get number 1 to TDC put the cam in with the lobed V,ing facing upwards BOLT UP AND WITH PUGS OUT HAND CRANK IT OVER TO MAKE SURE ALL CLEARANCES ARE GOOD. Cam chain attached of course I am about to attempt a Honda CB 750 chain swap engine in lol

I think your starter solenoid is stuck in the closed position. Replace it.

there is a key code usually under the headlite--if not give a dealer ur vin #--local key shops can makum

well if its like the other DR series you will find a bolt on each side toward the rear of the seat after you remove them you kind of pick the seat up and shimmey it backward till the seat releases in the front

Sorry I do not have any graphics for this

good luck rick If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/richard_b70d968cd1a1d293

What model?

The timing should not need to be adjusted. Most problems with the 160 Suzuki involve the carburetor. Make sure you have spark, pull the spark plug, hook the wire to it and ground the base against the engine. Crank the motor and see if the plug sparks. If it does, your problem is probably the carburetor. Pull the carb down and clean it. Pay special attention to the pilot jet and it's passages. Do not use wire to clean the jets and passages, use a spray carb cleaner and compressed air. Pay special attention to the passage in the float bowl that feeds the starter circuit. It will be a hole at the gasket edge of the float bowl that goes to the bottom of the bowl. There is a small orofice in that passage that is easily blocked, and when blocked, makes the engine real hard to start and keep running until the engine is warm. Good luck

http://www.sell.com/247L4V

click here they have what you need

Hi !
Just get new washer rings for the 2 bolts.
They have hardened and craked with wear and tear and heat. In high heat and pressure the oil becomes very thin and leaks through the cracked washers.
Your problem will be solved.
Regards
Berry

you can find the main fuse by following the positive cable from the battery to the starter relay, on thestarter relay is where you'll find the main fuse.
(usually a 30 amp fuse)

you will be able to have it on www.ronnies.com and go on they're microfiche diagrams section and select model and year and its all there....thank you to give me a good rating.

its adjusted automatically by a spring elease mech unless u misalingned